New Cuban Cookbook Nothing Less than a Celebration
by Larry Cox on May. 11, 2011, under UncategorizedAuthentic Cuban Cuisine by Martha Abreu Cortina (Pelican Publishing, $25)
Cuban cuisine is really a gastronomic trifecta which combines the influences of Spain, Africa, and the Caribbean. The foods of Cuba are also as much about family as it is about flavor and that is evident in a new cookbook that features classic recipes from starters and salads to mains, meats, and desserts.
Martha Abreu Cortina, a Florida-based cook, is a native of Cuba where she grew up watching her mother in the family kitchen. Her collection of recipes are written for the home cook and include step-by-step instructions for preparing and presenting such classic dishes as Pollo Asado en la Olla (Chicken Pot Roast), Mofongo (Mashed Green Plantains), Chayotes Rellenos (Pudding-Stuffed Chayotes), and Quimbombo (Okra Stew).
The hundred-plus recipes are divided by category including Appetizers and Salads; Soups and Beans, Seafood; Chicken and Turkey; Pork, Beef, and Other Meats; Accompaniments and Side Dishes; Desserts; and Beverages. There is also information about the safety of pressure cookers and a list of English/Spanish ingredients. The recipes are also indexed in both English and Spanish.
Whether the dish is fried, fricasseed, Stewed, or baked, every entry is a culinary invitation to a warm and satisfying Cuban meal.
Three recipes were tested from “Authentic Cuban Cuisine.” Congri, a dish with rice cooked with black beans, was easy to prepare and a perfect weekend meal which I served with homemade bread. Since I love custards and puddings, I prepared not one but two dessert recipes, a tasty Pumpkin Custard and the Diplomatic Pudding, a treat first served at a diplomatic conference during the early twentieth century and so delicious the chef graciously shared his recipe.
This is a fun collection that is nothing less than a celebration of Cuban cooking.
Pumpkin Custard
Serves 8 to 10
Glaze
2 c sugar
½ c water
Pumpkin Custard
1 ½ lbs Cuban-style pumpkin (calabaza), peeled and cut into chunks
1 tsp salt
1 14 oz can condensed milk
Cinnamon sticks and powder
Dash ground nutmeg
5 heaping tsp cornstarch
One 12 oz can evaporated milk
1 Tbs vanilla extract
To prepare the glaze, boil the 2 cups of sugar in ½ c water, moistening the sugar completely with the water, over medium heat until it is golden brown. Once it has reached the perfect color, transfer it at once to the mold you will be using to chill the custard. Turn the mold several times to coat the entire bottom and some of the sides.
To prepare the custard, cook the pumpkin in water and salt until tender. Puree in a blender and transfer to a large pot. Add the condensed milk, 2 or three cinnamon sticks, and nutmeg. In a separate container, dilute the cornstarch in the evaporated milk and strain it while you add the pumpkin puree. Cook this mixture over medium heat, turning often with a wooden spoon or spatula. When the custard thickens and it sticks to a spoon inserted in it, remove from the heat, and add the vanilla while turning it. Pour into the mold that has been glazed and sprinkle with cinnamon powder. Chill for a few hours or overnight until firm. Carefully turn upside down into a glass serving dish – pie or quiche pans work well – by covering with the glass pan and turning it over while holding both the mold and serving dish tightly.
