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Archive for the ‘Americana’ Category

San Francisco Photo Journal

Wednesday, March 31st, 2010

Majestic and alluring San Francisco is my favorite city in the USA, after Tucson of course. Santa Fe, Boulder, and Savannah follow close on their heels. Enjoying the unusual experience of a short break in our production schedule for my TV series Meteorite Men, I mentioned to my director that I could really use an actual vacation, rather than traveling somewhere to research a story or dig for space rocks. She said: “Take it soon.”

So, I returned to San Francisco—a city that I find, at once, relaxing and inspiring. It was my first proper holiday in two years, and these are a few favorite images from a week in and around that lovely city by the bay.

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Fisherman's Wharf

Fisherman's Wharf

The living roof atop the California Academy of Sciences

The living roof atop the California Academy of Sciences

Haight-Ashbury cafe

Haight-Ashbury cafe

Mailbox in Berkeley

Mailbox in Berkeley

Artist Gail Suzanne Weissman in her studio in Marin County

Artist Gail Suzanne Weissman in her studio in Marin County

Street market in Chinatown

Street market in Chinatown

Cat-friendly sign in people-friendly Bolinas

Cat-friendly sign in people-friendly Bolinas

Sleeping nautilus in the California Academay of Sciences aquarium

Sleeping nautilus in the California Academay of Sciences aquarium

Cable cars near Market Street

Cable cars near Market Street

The Haight

The Haight

Chinatown

Chinatown

USS Pampanito submarine museum

USS Pampanito submarine museum

Public shrine in Bolinas

Public shrine in Bolinas

Crab traps at Fisherman's Wharf

Crab traps at Fisherman's Wharf

Abandoned resort in Fairfax

Abandoned resort in Fairfax

Grant Street, Chinatown

Grant Street, Chinatown

Riding the cable cars is still the best part

Riding the cable cars is still the best part

a-lizard-art-cpPhotographs © by Geoffrey Notkin. All rights reserved. No reproduction without written permission.

In Cochise County The Guardian And Protector Of America’s Farming Heritage

Sunday, August 16th, 2009

As so often happens with my writing, one thing led to another. I was researching a story in Cochise County this very morning with my excellent friend, meteorite hunter Sonny Clary. Some miles west of Benson, on a quiet little side street, we saw an older gentleman working on a tractor in his front yard. We stopped to ask him a question. Sonny commented on how interesting the tractor looked and we were quickly and enthusiastically asked if we’d like to see the rest of them. Let me own up now and state that I have always loved tractors and vintage machinery. I know tractors are not for everyone but please bear with me, this story is special.

Mr. James Hadden, guardian and protector of America's farming heritage

Mr. James Hadden, master of machines and guardian of a piece of American history, alongside his latest project: A 1936 International about to be restored to its former glory

James F. Hadden is eighty years old and dressed in blue overalls, with a battered but still dapper cap, bright eyes, gentle smile, a lively sense of humor and more energy and enthusiasm than many men I know who are half his age. In 1972, James sold his large dairy farm in native Pennsylvania and moved the entire family to Tucson, because of his health. The move evidently worked out very well for him in the health department.

James and his wife, Betty, have been married for 62 years, and while Betty tends her gorgeous garden of marigolds (those orange flowers are evidently heaven for butterflies; there were about twenty in rapturous attendance) and grasshopper-proof vegetable operation, James finds, fixes, and restores vintage tractors.

When I asked him how he acquired this unusual skill, James replied that he had been born with it. While still working as a farmer in Pennsylvania he would: “Work in the shop until about 11 o’clock at night fixing the tractors, then I’d get up at 4:30 to feed the cows. I was the repair man for the whole neighborhood.”

The splendid and sporty 1940s Ford 2N is one of James' favorite restoration projects and a real beauty too.

The splendid and sporty 1940s Ford 2N is one of James' favorite restorations

James’ amazing collection of tractors fills one large barn and half of a second, which also houses his labyrinthine workshop. Additional vehicles are neatly parked in front of the Hadden’s home, under a crowded car port. One of his favorite machines is the Ford 2N, a feisty red and white survivor from the early 1940s, and a monument to good old-fashioned American engineering with just a hint of Deco thrown in (the gas tank cap was beautifully streamlined). “I had to take three coats of paint off of that one to get it down to the bare metal,” James commented. He removed each piece, cleaned it and then hung it in a corner of his workshop for repainting. James pointed out a red grille perfectly positioned on the front of the Ford. “That piece was missing, and they wanted $125 for a new one, so I went to my junk pile and made one myself.” Don’t you wish you could do that in your own home when you need something?

The current project is a rusty 1936 International. Its massive wheels look as if they were fashioned from a giant’s bicycle chain, and James demonstrated how he could easily remove the bolts—cemented in place by decades of rust—after heating them with a blow torch and then chilling them down with water.

I asked James how he managed to locate these remarkable veterans of cultivation. “I go to auctions and buy them if they go reasonable. I don’t put a lot of money into them ‘cos I do all my own work.” And when I asked about the International: “I’ve got a friend in Wilcox and one day he showed up with that on a trailer and asked if I wanted it. I said, ‘Sure, I’ll take it.’”

Planning for the future: "All the parts are there," James told me. "She just needs to be put back together." I plan on stopping by next year and if she is up and running yet.

Plenty still to do: "All the parts are there," James told me. "She just needs to be put back together." I plan on stopping by next year to see if she is up and running.

Not only are these wonderful machines in beautiful condition, they actually work. All except for one which, James admitted, was temporarily out of action due to a bad radiator. “I need to fix that,” he noted. Once a year James fires up all of these grand old cultivators, and displays them on his property for visitors to see. I have no doubt that this year, or maybe next, the venerable International will be purring away, lined up, in immaculate condition, next to its descendants.

It was such an enjoyable visit, and I was so very charmed by Mr. and Mrs. Hadden and their labors of love, that I pretty much just forgot about the other story. So, would the city of Benson, or Cochise County please give this man a grant or a knighthood and help him continue his extraordinary work.

The finest gentleman I have met all year, and the secret of James’ health, vigor and longevity? “Keeping busy is the secret. Keeping busy and doing things.” I couldn’t agree more.

a-lizard-art-cp6

Neon Graveyard

Friday, June 19th, 2009

During my most recent visit to Las Vegas I was vivdly reminded of my love/hate relationship with that oddest of cities. On one hand it is a great place to party and see shows; it is the gateway to the amazing Hoover Dam, and some of the most spectacular natural scenery in the West. On the other hand it can be, especially along The Strip, a soulless place: an overpriced theme park packed with skyscraper hotels—every one bigger and more ostentatious than the next.

Shades of Buck Rogers in the Vegas Boneyard

Shades of Buck Rogers in the Vegas Boneyard

To be honest, I miss the old Vegas: The Dunes, the Rat Pack, and all those glorious neon signs. I once read a comment that neon is the only truly original American art form. The old Vegas was naughty, sinful, and a little dangerous: the domain of down-and-out gamblers and professional card sharps. And all those cheap hotel rooms and, yes, it is true, the 39-cent breakfast.

All that remains of the once-great Sahara hotel and casino

All that remains of a once-great neon sculpture

Some years back, on a previous visit to Vegas, my traveling companion became obsessed with visiting the so-called “Neon Boneyard.” We had been told by someone that many of the vintage Vegas neon signs were slowly baking in the desert sun, not too far from old Downtown, and that it might be possible to visit them. At the time, there was nothing about this apocryphal site on the Web.

Color contrasts in the Vegas Boneyard

Color contrasts in the Vegas Boneyard

We looked in the phone book, called the Visitors’ Center, and made all kinds of other inquiries with no luck. On one of our last nights in town we were riding back to the Vegas Hiltion in a cab, and the driver was one of those (now largely vanished) old school New York-type cabbies who prattled away relentlessly and at high speed, and seemed to know all the current Vegas gossip. My friend whispered to me that I should ask him about the Boneyard. “He’s not going to know anything,” I answered impatiently, but I asked anyway.

“Oh sure,” he replied. “I know the guy who runs it. Good friend of mine.” So we wrote down a phone number, called the next day, and were graciously invited for a private photo op.

Too late to get married at this chapel

Too late to get married at this chapel

How fabulous it was! All those grand, old, uniquely American signs, studded with neon tubes, glass and steel. The designs are something of a mix between Art Deco, streamline, Wild West, and Buck Rogers, with a little MGM/Warner Brothers cartoonery thrown in for good measure. I recognized numerous much-missed hotel and casino signs from the old days, cooling their heels out there in the desert. A little less impressive than they once were, but still mighty in their stillness.

The hidden innards of a vintage Vegas neon sign

The hidden inner working of a vintage Vegas neon sign

Today, it’s a lot easier to find the Boneyard, and it goes by the more cosmopolitan name of Neon Museum Las Vegas. The museum is doing noble work to preserve and restore these unique mementos of neon Americana. Stop by next time you’re in Vegas. Really, the Neon Museum is a hell of a lot more interesting that the modern casinos. Except, maybe, for the Hard Rock Hotel which is a rockin’ joint any way you cut it. After all, they do have Sex Pistol Steve Jones’ Les Paul guitar on the wall and that is pretty cool in my book.

Logical Lizard illustration by Timothy Arbon
On location filming "Meteorite Men"

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