The next time a co-worker drops a bag of surplus oranges on the snack table for the taking, or a grocer practically gives away fresh lemons and limes, pull out all-purpose flour and turn on the oven.

It’s time to bake a cake.

The sweet-sour punch of citrus adds clean, fresh flavors to this baked dessert, proving there are more ways to use the in-season fruit than just pitchers of lemonade or fresh-squeezed orange juice.

“A little hint of citrus goes a long way into making a cake special,” says Lani Greer, a Gilbert woman who turned a passion for baking cakes from scratch into a side business.

Homemade cakes, once a dessert staple, are too often skipped over for those made from a box. The trade-off is quality. Cakes baked from scratch simply taste better.

“They are denser and the flavors pure,” says Greer, a former mechanical engineer and security-door saleswoman who combines her technical expertise with love of baking to turn out one-of-a-kind cakes.

Perking up cakes with citrus can be as easy as adding zest to the batter or frosting, or juice to the batter.

Baking cakes from scratch requires no special skills or expensive equipment. All that’s needed is a hand-held mixer, quality aluminum cake pans, measuring cups for dry and wet ingredients and two hours from start to finish.

The goal is to bake cakes that are delicate and moist. So avoid mixing or cooking too long, moves that produce chewy and dry cakes.

To Greer, a homemade cake should look homemade.

“I think people get intimidated because they think their cake should look like something a pro would bake. Just the opposite is true,” she says. “You want your cake to look nice, but not too perfect.”

Bakers offer the following tips:

• Temperature matters. If your oven temperature is questionable, invest in an oven thermometer. Before mixing the batter, turn on the oven and make sure the rack is in the center.

• Buy the best cake pans you can afford. Shiny pans reflect the heat and are your best choice for cake baking.

• Prepare ingredients at room temperature for best results.

• Grease pans with about 1 tablespoon of fat per layer pan.

• To measure flour, fluff it in the bag then spoon into the dry-ingredient measuring cup. Level off with a knife.

• Speed the softening of cold butter by grating or thinly slicing it and letting stand for about 10 minutes over a bowl of warm water.

• Cool the cake thoroughly before frosting.

Margarita cake

For the cake:

1/2 cup or 1 stick unsalted butter

1 cup sugar

2 eggs

1 3/4 cups all-purpose flour

2 teaspoons baking powder

1/2 teaspoon salt

2/3 cup heavy cream

1 lime, rind grated and juiced to make 1 tablespoon

Lime curd for topping (available in grocery stores)

For lime glaze:

1/2 cup lime juice

2 teaspoons triple sec

1 teaspoon tequila

1 cup confectioners’ sugar

For lime buttercream frosting:

1 cup softened butter

1/2 cup shortening

4 cups sifted powdered sugar

2 tablespoons heavy cream

lime glaze

2 tablespoons grated lime rind

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. In a large mixing bowl, cream the butter until smooth. Gradually add the sugar, beating until light and fluffy. Add the eggs, one at a time, and continue to beat. In a second bowl, sift flour, baking powder and salt together. Alternately add the flour mixture and the cream into the egg mixture, starting and ending with the flour. Mix in the lime rind and lime juice. Scoop the batter into 2 greased, 8-inch cake pans and bake for 30 to 35 minutes. The cake is done when a knife or cake tester inserted into the center comes out clean and the cake starts to pull away from the side. Remove from the oven and let stand 10 minutes. Turn out onto a cake rack to cool.

To make the glaze: Mix the lime juice, triple sec, tequila and confectioners’ sugar until smooth. Set aside half of the glaze to make the frosting (see below).

While the cake is still warm, slowly spoon glaze over the top so that all of the liquid is absorbed. Place a plate under the cake rack to catch the glaze that runs off, and reapply the drippings until all of the liquid has been absorbed.

To make frosting: Cream butter and shortening in a large mixing bowl. Add powdered sugar and heavy cream. Add reserved lime glaze to a medium consistency. Blend well. Sprinkle in grated lime peel.

Frost cake and top with lime curd. Makes 8 to 10 servings.

Source: Lani Greer of Lani Cakes, Gilbert, Ariz.

Lemon Cake

For the cake:

2 lemons

1 1/2 cups granulated sugar, divided use

1 cup cake flour, sifted before measuring

2/3 cup water

10 large egg whites

1/2 teaspoon cream of tartar

7 large egg yolks

Tiny fresh flowers, mint leaves and/or crystallized violets for garnish

For the glaze:

3/4 cup granulated sugar

1/4 cup whipping cream

3 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice

3 tablespoons unsalted butter

1/2 cup confectioners’ sugar

1 1/2 tablespoons orange-flavored liqueur

Place a rack in the center of the oven and heat oven to 325 degrees. Have an ungreased 10-inch tube pan ready.

Remove the rind (yellow part only) from the lemons with a vegetable peeler. Place rind on a cutting board and sprinkle with 1 tablespoon of the granulated sugar. Mince rind as finely as possible with a sharp knife.

Squeeze the lemons and set aside one-fourth cup juice for the cake and 3 tablespoons for the glaze. Sift the flour two more times and set aside.

Combine the remaining sugar and the water in a small saucepan, swirling the pan so the sugar is moistened. Bring to a rapid boil; cook 1 and one-half minutes.

As the sugar cooks, combine the egg whites and cream of tartar in a 5-quart mixing bowl. Beat with an electric mixer at high speed until egg whites hold soft peaks. Keeping the mixer running at high speed, add sugar syrup to whites in a very slow, steady stream. Once all of the syrup has been added, continue beating whites until they are cool, firm and glossy.

Whisk the egg yolks in a bowl until they are light-colored. Add the lemon rind and one-fourth cup juice and mix well. With a large rubber spatula, fold the yolks into the egg whites, making sure they are fully incorporated. Add the flour, in thirds, folding in lightly but thoroughly between each addition.

Transfer batter to prepared pan, then smooth surface with spatula. Tap the pan on the counter to remove air pockets. Bake until puffy and golden, 45 to 50 minutes. Invert pan, resting it on the neck of a slender bottle if necessary to keep it from resting on the counter. Cool completely. Loosen the cake from the sides of the pan with a small knife and transfer to a serving plate.

To make the glaze: Combine granulated sugar, cream, lemon juice and butter in a small pan. Heat to a boil, then cook at a rapid boil for 3 minutes. Remove from the heat and add confectioners’ sugar, whisking until completely smooth. Mix in liqueur.

Spoon glaze over the top of cake, letting it drip down the sides. Garnish with flowers, mint leaves and/or crystallized violets. Slice the cake with a serrated knife, using a gentle, sawing motion. Makes 12 to 14 servings.

Source: Lani Greer of Lani Cakes, Gilbert, Ariz.

Orange Creamsicle Cake

For the cake:

Vegetable cooking spray

3 cups sifted unbleached flour

1 tablespoon baking powder

1/2 cup butter, softened

1 1/2 cups granulated sugar

1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract

1 small orange yogurt

3/4 cup milk

3 egg whites

2 teaspoons grated orange zest

For orange cream-cheese frosting:

1/2 cup butter

2 teaspoons shortening

8 ounces room-temperature cream cheese

3 cups powdered sugar

1/3 cup orange juice

Orange-rind curls for garnish

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Spray 2 6-inch cake pans with vegetable cooking spray and line the bottom of each pan with parchment paper. In a medium bowl, sift together flour and baking powder; set aside. With mixer, cream together butter and sugar at medium speed until light and fluffy; add vanilla and yogurt, beating well. Add flour mixture and milk alternately to butter mixture, starting and ending with flour and beating well. In a separate bowl, using grease-free utensils, beat egg whites until stiff peaks form, but not too dry. Fold into batter gently along with orange zest. Divide batter into the two pans and bake for 35 to 40 minutes or until toothpick in the center comes out clean. Cool completely before frosting.

To make frosting: In a large mixing bowl, add butter, shortening, cream cheese, powdered sugar and orange juice. Mix until well blended. Adjust consistency with powdered sugar or juice.

Frost cake and garnish with orange-rind curls. Makes 8 to 10 servings.

Source: Lani Greer of Lani Cakes, Gilbert, Ariz.

AP-NY-03-24-09 1125EDT

Although Scotland, Ireland and England all claim scones as their own, no one is sure just where this cross between a biscuit and a muffin originated.

It doesn’t seem to matter on this side of the Atlantic. Today, Yanks clearly are smitten with the British import. Scones are everywhere, including coffee shops, tearooms and bakeries.

“People love that they are not fried, not gooey and have a fresh, clean flavor. And they are so diverse and versatile,” says master baker Ben Hershberger of The Phoenician resort in Scottsdale, Ariz.

Scones can be served with coffee for breakfast, or with tea for an afternoon pick-me-up. Savory varieties baked with herbs make welcome substitutes for dinner rolls.

Hershberger also attributes their recent spike in popularity to Americans’ newfound infatuation with “all things English,” including the strength of the pound, TV chef Gordon Ramsay, fashion and tea.

“The English love their scones, and now so do we,” Hershberger says.

Scones – said to have taken their name from the Stone of Destiny, or Stone of Scone, that was connected with the crowning of Scottish kings – originally were griddle-fried oatcakes. Today, they are made with wheat flour, sugar, baking powder or baking soda, butter, cream and eggs, and baked in the oven – in the traditional wedge form and in round, square and diamond shapes.

They typically include raisins or currants but often are plain, relying on jam, preserves, lemon curd, honey or a touch of clotted cream for additional flavor. Contemporary versions are made with dried fruit (such as cranberries and dates), nuts, orange rind, chocolate morsels and other flavorings.

According to Hershberger, scones must be baked properly, or else. “If you get it wrong, everyone will know,” he says.

For Sheila Mitchell, a retired London hairdresser who lives in Mesa, Ariz., baking scones is simple.

“Nobody should be intimidated,” she says. “Once you get the recipe and technique down, they are easy to turn out, and they are so wonderful.

“But they are not something you want to grab and eat on the run. Having a cup of tea and scone is such a wonderful way to slow down and enjoy life.”

Basic scones

3 eggs

1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons cream

3 1/4 cups all-purpose flour

1/2 cup sugar

1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon baking powder

1/4 cup butter

1 cup of garnish of choice, from blueberries and cranberries to chocolate chips

Mix eggs and cream. Set aside. In a large mixing bowl, combine all dry ingredients with room-temperature butter. Mix until butter is evenly incorporated.

Slowly add liquid, mixing until the batter reaches the consistency of cornmeal. While mixing, add garnishes to taste.

Remove dough from bowl, and roll out to about one-half-inch thick. Cut into 2 1/2-inch rounds. Place on an ungreased baking sheet. Bake at 400 degrees for 10 to 15 minutes. Makes 12 servings.

Source: Ben Hershberger, master baker, The Phoenician resort in Scottsdale, Ariz.

Olive Scones

Nonstick cooking spray

1 1/2 cups red onion, finely chopped

6 eggs, plus 1 egg for egg wash

1 cup plus 3 tablespoons cream

5 1/3 cups all-purpose flour

3 1/2 cups oats

4 tablespoons sugar

2 1/2 tablespoons baking powder

3 tablespoons rosemary

2 teaspoons black pepper

1 tablespoon salt

1 2/3 cups butter

1 cup chopped kalamata olives, chopped

1 cup Parmesan cheese

Heat medium saute pan on medium high, coating with cooking spray. Add onion and saute lightly, about 2 to 3 minutes. Remove from heat and allow to cool.

In a large mixing bowl, add 6 eggs and cream. Set aside.

In a separate mixing bowl, blend flour, oats, sugar, baking powder, rosemary, black pepper, salt and butter. Mix until butter is evenly incorporated.

Next, slowly add liquids to dry ingredients. Mix to blend. Stir in olives, onions and cheese.

Remove from bowl and roll to about one-half-inch thick. Cut into 2 1/2-inch rounds. Mix 1 egg and use a pastry brush to wash unbaked scones.

Place egg-washed dough on an ungreased baking sheet. Bake at 400 degrees for 10 to 15 minutes. Makes about 24 servings.

Source: Ben Hershberger, master baker, The Phoenician resort in Scottsdale, Ariz.

Phoenix chocolate-chip scones

Nonstick cooking spray

3 cups all-purpose flour

1/3 cup sugar

3/4 teaspoon salt

4 teaspoons baking powder

3/4 cup unsalted butter

1 egg

1 teaspoon vanilla

3/4 to 1 cup whipping cream

1 cup semisweet chocolate chips

Garnish

3 ounces semisweet chocolate chips, melted

3 ounces white chocolate, melted

Confectioners’ sugar, garnish

Preheat oven to 425 degrees. Stack two baking sheets together and line top one with parchment paper (if baking scones free-form). Or spray 6 to 8 3 1/2-inch individual tart tins with non-stick cooking spray.

In a food-processor bowl, place flour, sugar, salt and baking powder together and process to combine dry ingredients. Add in the butter and pulse to cut butter into dry mixture. Process briefly until you have a coarse, mealy texture.

Turn mixture out into a large bowl. Make a well in the center and add egg, vanilla and cream. Stir to make a soft dough, adding in chocolate chips at the same time.

Dough should be on the borderline between a dough and a firm batter. Using an ice-cream scoop, scoop scone dough into tart tins or scoop them free-form onto parchment-covered baking sheet.

Bake until nicely browned, about 15 to 18 minutes. Remove and cool in tart shells or on baking sheet until they can be handled. Drizzle dark, then white, chocolate on top of each scone. Let set, then dust on confectioners’ sugar.

Baker’s note: If you have clean tuna cans on hand, you can scoop the scone batter into these for a different, gourmet look. Makes 8 to 9 servings.

Source: The Arizona Republic.

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SECRETS FOR GREAT SCONES

• Measure accurately. Although most Americans measure by volume, Ben Hershberger, master baker at The Phoenician resort in Scottsdale, Ariz., recommends measuring by weight. Use a simple conversion chart to turn tablespoons into ounces.

- Always mix the dry ingredients with butter before adding other ingredients. Do not melt butter, but rather allow it to soften to room temperature and then cut it into the flour mixture. The goal is to coat the flour with butter, a fat that prevents the gluten from becoming tough.

• Avoid mixing too long and rigorously. Otherwise, the result will be chewy, dry scones.

• If using fresh raspberries, freeze first to prevent them from spilling into the scone.

• Serve as soon after baking as possible. They are best fresh, because they dry out quickly.

The ruling on three scone mixes

• Cherry scone mix hits mark (just go easy on cream)

The cherry Iveta Scone Mix called for 1 cup of heavy cream to be worked into the mix. The resulting dough was slightly sticky and not easy to work with, and the scones seemed to flatten a bit in the oven. If a perfect scone shape is important, use a bit less cream.

The texture of the finished scone was lovely, slightly crisp on the outside with a tender crumb inside. The scones were delicious: not too sweet, with a rich flavor.

The dried cherries are rather large, and a few fell off during the journey from bowl to oven to mouth, but they provide a lively burst of flavor. www.iveta.com

- Mary Beth Faller

• Maple-oat scone mix is flaky, tasty

A good sign: The ingredients list for King Arthur Flour’s Vermont Maple-Oat Scone Mix is short and contains no unpronounceable items. You add an egg, milk, butter and salt.

The instructions advise working the butter into the mixture with a fork or electric mixer. It took about five minutes to get the proper crumbly consistency with a pastry blender. Using a fork would have been a lot more work. (If you use a mixer, make sure your bowl is deeper than it is wide or flour may go flying.)

You’re also instructed to cut the dough into pieces and separate them before baking. That seemed fussy; other scone recipes advise simply patting the dough into a round and cutting after baking.

No matter. The scones were tender and flaky inside, just sweet enough, and with a pleasing maple taste and aroma. Whole oatmeal flakes add texture without making the scones dense.

A box makes eight scones and costs $6.95. Avid bakers could make their own for less, but these scones taste better than many store-bought varieties that cost $2 or $3 each. And you know exactly what’s in them. www.kingarthurflour.com

- Jill Cassidy

• Traditional scone mix worth a bit of work

Stonewall Kitchen’s Traditional Scone Mix is almost like making it from scratch. You cut in a stick and a half of butter, add cold water and gently knead into a ball of dough.

If it’s an add-water-and-stir mix you’re looking for, this isn’t for you. But if working with dough is second nature or almost, then this mix delivers yummy, crumbling, buttery-tasting scones fresh from the oven. Their texture is denser, but these scones are moist.

If you want cranberries, raisins or chocolate, you’ll have to add your own. No mix-ins are included. At $6.89, this is pricier than some scone mixes, but it’s worth it. www.stonewallkitchen.com

- Susan Felt

On Valentine’s Day, chocolate usually shoves vanilla aside with the insolence of a schoolyard bully. But today, vanilla – empowered by a newfound appreciation of its legendary bean – finally is refusing to cower.

A vanilla-bean cake says love as lustily as a box of single-origin dark chocolates.

There’s a good reason for vanilla’s newfound strength. Savvy consumers are discovering the difference between the real deal – a bean harvested from the orchid – and the widely available, artificially flavored extracts made from wood-pulp byproducts.

Pure vanilla, whether the whole bean, extract or ground, has a smooth flavor with earthy, complex undertones. Imitation vanilla, on the other hand, is saddled with an overpowering flavor and lingering chemical aftertaste.

“I tell people that they have no idea whether they like vanilla or not if they have only tasted imitation. The difference between real and imitation is night and day,” says Eric Elsberry, who, along with his wife, Patty, owns Arizona Vanilla Company, a Mesa-based Internet import store that sells to the public and upper-crust bakeries.

Like magic, this small brown bean makes just about any food, from pork chops to chocolate, taste better. A sprinkling of ground vanilla tames bitter coffee, while a small scrape from a bean turns mashed sweet potatoes from a side dish to dessert.

“Vanilla acts like salt and pepper. It’s an aromatic flavor enhancer,” Elsberry says.

Like wine, vanilla’s subtle undertones change by region. The key is matching the dish to vanilla from one of the world’s top growing regions – Mexico, Tahiti and Madagascar.

Patty Elsberry, an accomplished cook and co-author of the “Simply Vanilla” cookbook, recommends using Mexican beans for salad dressings, chocolate desserts and flavored vinegar. Madagascar beans work best in savory dishes and fruit compotes, while Tahitian teams well with cream sauces and roasted garlic.

Vanilla comes in four basic forms: whole bean, extract, ground and paste. The bean, the most expensive at about $1.35 to $3 a pod, has become the vanilla of choice for bakers, chefs and food hobbyists drawn to its fuller, richer flavor.

The high cost of vanilla is due to the labor involved in cultivating and harvesting the pods. The process begins with hand pollination of the orchid on the single day of the year the flower opens. After the vanilla bean forms and matures, it is harvested and then subjected to months of curing and fermentation.

Pure vanilla extract, ground and paste are less expensive and more convenient. Although the flavor is still pronounced, these three forms taste less intense than fresh beans.

Treats for the sweet that skip the chocolate

The Sweet Pea Sugar Cookies

Cookies:

1 cup butter

1 cup sugar

1 vanilla bean, split and seeds scraped, or 1 tablespoon vanilla extract

1 egg

Zest of 1 orange or lemon

2 tablespoons orange juice

2 1/2 cups all-purpose flour

1 tablespoon baking powder

Icing•

1 pound powdered sugar

1 tablespoon powdered egg whites

1/2 cup water

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

Preheat oven to 375 degrees. In a large mixing bowl, mix together butter, sugar and vanilla. Add the egg, zest and juice. Mix until smooth. Gradually stir in the flour and baking powder until well mixed. Wrap tightly and chill for 2 to 3 hours, or until firm. Sprinkle flour along a clean surface and roll out dough. Use heart-shaped cookie cutters to cut out cookies. Place on ungreased cookie sheet.

Bake about 8 minutes, or until edges of cookies are golden. Timing will vary depending on the size and shape of the cookie cutter. Let cool.

For icing, whisk together powdered sugar, powdered egg whites and small drizzles of water until icing is smooth and thick. Whisk in vanilla. Place in a pastry bag fitted with a decorator tip, or spread on cookies with an offset spatula. Makes about 12 cookies.

Source: Chef Danielle Librera, The Sweet Pea Baking and Catering, Phoenix

Old Fashioned Vanilla Bean Cake

2 1/4 cups all-purpose flour

1 tablespoon baking powder

1/4 teaspoon sea salt

8 ounces butter, softened

1 3/4 cups sugar

1 vanilla bean split, seeds scraped

3 eggs

1 3/4 cups milk

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Sift flour, baking powder and sea salt together and set aside. Use a mixer, preferably with a paddle setting, to mix together butter and sugar until well combined. Add vanilla bean seeds and blend well. Add eggs one at a time, continuing to mix until ingredients are combined. In a separate mixing bowl, combine all dry ingredients. Add in three batches to butter mixture, gently stirring. Add milk and mix until all ingredients are combined. Be careful not to overmix; it will cause the cake to become tough.

Spray two round 8-inch-by-1 2/3-inch pans with cooking oil and dust with flour. Pour batter into pans and bake 45 to 55 minutes. Allow to cool in pan before removing and slicing or frosting. Makes 8 servings.

Source: Chef Danielle Librera, The Sweet Pea Baking and Catering, Phoenix

Vanilla dry rub pork chops

4 boneless pork chops, about 1/4 inch thick

1 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon sweet paprika

1 tablespoon brown sugar

1/8 teaspoon black pepper

1/8 teaspoon dried thyme

1/2 teaspoon onion powder

1/4 teaspoon garlic powder

1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/8 teaspoon ground cloves

1/8 teaspoon ground allspice

1 vanilla bean split lengthwise, seeds scraped

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

Place pork chops in a glass container and set aside. For dry rub, combine salt, paprika, brown sugar, black pepper, dried thyme, onion powder, garlic powder, ground cinnamon, cloves and allspice in a small bowl. Split the vanilla bean lengthwise and scrape the seeds. Rub the seeds in the chops, and sprinkle generously with the dry rub.

Heat the oil in a large skillet at a medium-high temperature. When hot, place pork chops in the skillet. Cook about 2-3 minutes. Turn and cook the second side about 2-3 minutes. Reduce heat to medium low. Add more oil if the chops begin to stick. Cook for another 3-4 minutes, until the juice runs clear. Makes 4 servings.

Source: Arizona Vanilla Company

Filet mignon with vanilla wine sauce

For the sauce:

2 cups organic beef stock

1/4 cup dry red wine

1 small onion, sliced in half

3 large sprigs of fresh marjoram or oregano

2 whole garlic cloves

1 teaspoon Nielsen-Massey Organic Madagascar Bourbon Pure Vanilla Extract

1 1/2 tablespoons tomato paste

1 teaspoon light brown sugar

2 tablespoons butter, softened

For the steaks

4 (4-ounce) 1 1/2-inch-thick filets mignons

Salt and pepper to taste

2 tablespoons olive oil

Mushrooms

2 cups sliced mushrooms

1/4 cup clarified butter (see note)

For the sauce, combine the stock, wine, onion, marjoram, garlic, vanilla extract, tomato paste and brown sugar in a saucepan. Simmer until reduced by half. Strain through a fine mesh strainer into a small saute pan. Whisk the butter into the sauce 1 tablespoon at a time over medium heat. The sauce will become glossy and slightly thickened.

For the steaks, preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Season the steaks with salt and pepper. Heat the olive oil in an oven-safe skillet over medium-high heat.

Add the steaks and sear each side for 2 to 3 minutes. Place the skillet in the oven and roast for 8 to 10 minutes for medium or to the desired degree of doneness. Remove and let stand.

For the mushrooms, saute the mushrooms in the clarified butter in a medium saucepan until brown.

To assemble, place the steaks on a serving platter. Spoon the sauce over the steaks. Garnish with mushrooms. Serves 4.

Note: Clarified butter is melted butter that has had the white milk solids skimmed off the top, which allows the butter to be less heat-sensitive and reduces the risk of burning.

Source: “A Century of Flavor by Nielsen-Massey Vanillas” (The Cookbook Marketplace, 2008, $27.95)

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VANILLA TIPS

In May 2005, Eric and Patty Elsberry bought their first shipment of vanilla beans from Mexico and have been selling the coveted spice to bakeries and home cooks ever since through Arizona Vanilla Company, a Mesa-based Internet import store that sells to the public and bakeries.

The couple attributes the steady increase in sales to the quest by foodies for top-of-the-line ingredients, whether vanilla or coffee beans. Along with selling beans, extract and ground vanilla from around the world, the Elsberrys act as ambassadors for the spice.

Here are a few of their top tips and vanilla facts:

• Select beans that are pliable and fresh, not dry. Fresh vanilla beans should not rattle when you shake them.

• Bring dried beans back to life by soaking in warm water for several hours before using.

• To use, split a bean lengthwise with a sharp knife and scrape out the powder-fine seeds. Add the seeds to your recipe. The seeds from one vanilla bean are equivalent to 2 to 3 teaspoons of extract.

• After splitting open, allow the vanilla pod to dry for a couple of days. Add the dried pod to sugar for extra flavor and aroma. Or tie pods in cheesecloth and use as a potpourri. Basically, don’t throw out the pod until there is no aroma left.

• Store vanilla for six to nine months in a sealed container or jar that is kept in a cool, dark place, such as the pantry, but never in the refrigerator.

• Why does vanilla extract contain alcohol? The alcohol helps to extract the flavors from the vanilla bean. Plus, the federal government requires that pure vanilla extract be made with no less than 35 percent alcohol solution.

• Vanilla extract, like fine wine, gets better with age. Most reach the peak of flavor at age 2.

• Use pure ground vanilla in warm drinks or substitute for vanilla extract in baking and cooking.

• Not all vanilla tastes the same. Madagascar, Bourbon and Mexican vanilla are all the same species, but because they are grown and cured in different climates and soil, their taste profiles are slightly different. All possess a fruity aroma and strong vanilla flavor. Tahitian beans are a different species and are known for their earthly aroma and flavor.

On the Web:

Arizona Vanilla Co., arizonavanilla.com

———

VANILLA EXTRACT

Most home cooks use vanilla extract, whether pure or imitation. The editors of Cook’s Illustrated magazine recently tested 12 extracts to determine which had the best overall flavor. Tops in the test: McCormick Pure Vanilla Extract ($7.99 for 2 ounces), Rodelle Pure Vanilla Extract ($7.99 for 4 ounces) and Nielsen-Massey Madagascar Bourbon Pure Vanilla Extract ($9.99 for 4 ounces).

Gannett News Service

When nights turn brisk and darkness falls early, seductive after-dinner drinks replace the fruity cocktails of summer.

The ancient ritual of topping off dinner with a brandy served in a snifter or a freshly brewed coffee spiked with grappa provides a legitimate reason to linger at the table. Serve with or instead of dessert.

“After-dinner drinks are very much a winter thing, and a great way to wind down a meal,” says Angela Badolato of Sassi, a Scottsdale, Ariz., restaurant. “These are alcoholic drinks with wonderful flavors, but not strong enough to get you intoxicated.”

Most are easy to mix and require only a handful of ingredients.

After-dinner drinks fall into three main types: digestifs, sweets and spiked coffees. Digestifs, such as brandy, port or whiskey, are believed to relax the stomach after a meal.

Coffee drinks, popular in countries like Italy where dinners often are long, leisurely affairs, provide a subtle after-dinner pick-me-up.

Those that can double as dessert are simply a sweet way to end a meal.

At Los Sombreros Mexican Cafe in Scottsdale, one of the most popular after-dinner drinks is a hot chocolate with almond-infused tequila.

The sweet drink softens a spicy meal, and as bar manager Steve Douds explains, “Finishing a great meal with a little almond tequila is like a warm hug from Mom.”

Sip these sweets after dinner

Cafee Siciliano

6 ounces freshly brewed coffee

2 ounces Averna liqueur

Fresh whipped cream

Pour coffee into a mug. Add Averna liqueur and mix well. Top with whipped cream. Makes 1 drink.

Source: Sassi restaurant, Scottsdale, Ariz.

Mexican hot chocolate

8 ounces whole milk

1/4 of a 3-ounce tablet of Abuelita chocolate (made by Nestle)

1 and 1/2 ounce of almendrado, also called almond-infused tequila

Heat milk on stovetop or in microwave until simmering (do not let the milk boil). Add chocolate tablet and stir to dissolve. Pour hot chocolate into a blender and add almond-infused tequila. Blend until frothy. Makes 1 drink.

Source: Los Sombreros Mexican Cafe, Scottsdale, Ariz.

Hot Sicilian

5 ounces hot water

3 ounces tangerine-fennel amaro

Cinnamon stick

Orange wheel

Pour hot water into a glass. Add amaro and mix well. Garnish with cinnamon stick and orange wheel. Makes 1 drink.

Source: Sassi restaurant in Scottsdale, Ariz.

Rompope

Crushed ice

4 ounces eggnog

3/4 ounce Mexican or Caribbean rum

3/4 ounce almendrado, also called almond-infused tequila

Fill glass about halfway with ice. Pour in all ingredients. Cover glass and shake. Makes 1 drink.

Source: Los Sombreros Mexican Cafe, Scottsdale, Ariz.

Caffe Coretto

6 ounces freshly brewed coffee

2 ounces almond-flavored grappa

Pour coffee into a mug. Add grappa and mix well. Makes 1 drink.

Source: Sassi restaurant, Scottsdale, Ariz.

Geisha coffe

1 ounce Van Gogh Double Espresso vodka

1/2 ounce Kahlua

1/2 ounce iced coffee

Ice

Place all ingredients in a cocktail shaker. Shake well and serve in a cold beer glass. Makes 1 drink.

Source: Geisha A Go Go, Scottsdale, Ariz.

A treasured tradition in our crazy-for-Christmas culture involves a sack of flour, sticks of butter, cups of sugar and a story that fastens one generation to the next.

We’re talking Christmas cookies.

Nothing says happy holidays like a tray of home-baked goodness in an abundance of flavors, shapes and sizes. Few cooks, however, have the time or baking power to turn out the variety the season demands.

This year, get the same results with less effort by organizing a cookie exchange.

Here’s how it works: Gather a group of cooks. Each bakes a hefty batch of family favorites, and all gather to trade, guests taking one or two cookies from each tray. The give-and-take lets each person leave with several dozen assorted cookies, a tray filled with generations of baking tradition.

When organizing a cookie exchange, keep these tips in mind:

• Insist on home-baked cookies.

• Select a time, day and location for the exchange, whether it’s the office cafeteria, church basement or a neighbor’s living room.

• Include explicit instructions in the invitation, such as the minimum number to bring. Instruct participants to bring their cookies on large trays to make swapping easy.

• Ban participants from tasting the goodies. Save all cookies for swapping. Curb temptation by serving a light meal or snacks during the exchange.

• Encourage participants to share the story behind the cookie. For many, the scent of fresh cookies triggers memories of holidays past. Holiday cookies can be loaded with as much family lore as sugar.

RECIPES

If heaps of cookies are on your holiday to-do list, let these cookie-exchange recipes inspire you to organize one with family, friends or co-workers. The Arizona Republic asked readers to send in their favorite holiday-cookie recipe and the cookie’s holiday message. Dozens did, and we selected five entries for their diversity of flavors and stories. Here they are:

PERSIMMON COOKIES

Dorothy Croker, 89, of Phoenix has been baking Persimmon Cookies since the tree in her California backyard began producing the orange fruit 42 years ago. The fresh fruit, nutmeg, cinnamon, coconut and other flavorful ingredients create a nearly perfect baking harmony. “It’s my holiday tradition and something I look forward to baking all year round,” says Croker. “It’s not Christmas without these cookies.”

1/2 cup shortening

1 cup sugar

1 teaspoon baking soda

1 cup persimmon pulp (use only persimmons that are soft to the touch)

1 egg, beaten

2 cups flour

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon cinnamon

1/4 teaspoon cloves

1 cup chopped walnuts

1 cup raisins

1 cup coconut

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. In a large mixing bowl, cream shortening and sugar. In a separate bowl, dissolve baking soda in persimmon pulp. Add pulp to creamed mixture. Add beaten egg and all dry ingredients. Mix well. Add nuts, raisins and coconut and mix. Drop by teaspoons on greased cookie sheet. Bake 8 to 10 minutes, or until light brown. Makes 3 dozen cookies.

CREAM CHEESE NUT HORNS

Dolores Fedorka of Scottsdale, Ariz., learned to make Cream Cheese Nut Horns from her mother-in-law, who learned from her mother. That was 52 years ago, and Fedorka still makes the cookies every year. “There’s something comforting about making the same cookies year after year,” she says. “I’ve even taught my granddaughter how to bake them, so now the tradition spans at least four generations, if not more. We’re not quite sure when it started, but pretty sure it will continue.”

1 pound cream cheese

1 pound butter

4 egg yolks, slightly beaten

6 cups all-purpose flour

Granulated sugar for dusting

Filling

1 pound walnuts or pecans, ground in a meat grinder or food processor

1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract

Sugar to taste

1/4 cup milk or cream

Cream together cream cheese, butter and yolks in a large mixing bowl. Stir in flour until dough is firm and consistent. Divide dough into 16 balls. Cover well and place in the refrigerator for several hours or overnight. When ready to make cookies, remove from refrigerator. Dust a large cutting board with sugar. Roll each ball into a flat sheet the size of a piecrust. Cut each sheet into 6 to 8 sections.

To make filling, add nuts, vanilla, sugar and cream to a mixing bowl. Stir well. The filling should have the consistency of paste. Place a teaspoon of filling along the wide section of each triangular piece. Use your fingers to gently roll each triangular piece into a cylinder. Place cookies on an ungreased baking sheet. Preheat oven to 350 degrees, and bake about 20 to 25 minutes, or until golden brown. Makes about 8 dozen cookies.

WILLIE’S UNBAKED CHOW MEIN COOKIES, LIKE RUDY LIKES THEM

Jana Bommersbach will honor her father, who died last spring at age 85, by making his favorite cookies for her annual Santa party. The treats combine chocolate and butterscotch chips with crispy chow mein noodles and salted peanuts.

“My dad, Rudy, knew his cookies. And my mother, Willie, loved to make them for him,” says Bommersbach, an Edgar Award-nominated Phoenix author whose latest book, “Bones in the Desert,” was published in October. “They’re not only delicious, but easy and fun to make.”

12 ounces chocolate chips

12 ounces butterscotch chips

1 and one-half cups chow mein noodles

12 ounces salted peanuts

In a double boiler, melt chocolate and butterscotch chips. Place chow mein noodles and peanuts in a large mixing bowl. Pour melted chip mixture over the noodles and nuts. Mix together well. Scoop out by teaspoons and drop on waxed paper. Makes about 50 to 60 mini cookies.

CABALLERO CHOCOLATE CHILI COOKIES

Kathy Schneider decided a few years ago to start, rather than follow, a family tradition. She wanted a cookie that reflected the Southwest, and her Caballero Chocolate Chili Cookies do just that. Schneider, who along with husband Fred owns SS Financial Services in Scottsdale, plans to spread her chili-spiked holiday treats as far as possible this year.

“Cookies are very important to my holidays. I love to bake, and cookies are a way to say thank you for being in my life,” she says. “These cookies will brighten the holiday for my family and friends.”

1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour

3/4 cup unsweetened cocoa powder

1/2 teaspoon cinnamon

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper

1/4 teaspoon red chili flakes

1/2 cup unsalted butter

1 cup brown sugar

1 large egg

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

Combine first seven ingredients in a medium bowl. Mix thoroughly and set aside. In another mixing bowl, beat the butter and brown sugar until light and creamy. Add the egg and vanilla extract, and beat until fluffy. Gradually stir in the flour mixture. Put dough on waxed paper. Shape and roll the dough into an elongated jelly roll. Wrap tightly in waxed paper and chill.

Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Cut slices thin and place about 1 inch apart on ungreased baking sheet. Bake for 10-12 minutes. Makes 2 dozen.

NUT SMUGGLERS

Lizbeth Hayden of Scottsdale laughs a little while baking her family’s favorite Christmas cookie. That’s because the cookie their late mother called Nut Smugglers is really rugelach, a Jewish pastry. Hayden’s family learned of the cookie’s true identity only after her youngest sister enrolled in a fashion institute in New York City. Hayden’s sister baked the family treat for close friends, who revealed the cookie’s origins. The fraud, however, never stopped Hayden and her sisters from baking the cookies. “And we still call them Nut Smugglers. The cookies are the family glue,” she says.

Cookies

2 cups all-purpose flour

1/4 cup sour cream

1 egg yolk

1/2 pound butter

Pinch salt

Add first five ingredients to a large mixing bowl. Stir or beat until well blended. Cover and refrigerate for 24 hours. Divide and cut dough into three even pieces. Roll out each ball on a large cutting board. Set aside.

Filling

1 cup sugar

1 teaspoon cinnamon

1 cup walnut pieces

Mix sugar, cinnamon and walnut pieces together in a bowl. Top each dough disc evenly with nut-sugar mixture. Cut each dough disc into 16 pieces. Roll into crescent-shaped cookies. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Place cookies on an ungreased cookie sheet and bake for 25 minutes, or until golden brown. Makes 4 dozen cookies.

Spam, for the discerning eater, is a four-letter word. Nothing but gobs of cholesterol, artery-cogging fat and diet-busting calories. Spam makes better jokes than dinner.

Then there are the defenders, like Darlene Buerger of Peoria, Ariz., who relish the mystery meat introduced to budget-conscious America in 1937 for its distinctive flavor.

“It’s so sad that people make fun of Spam. It’s really wonderful stuff,” said Buerger, who recently parlayed Spam love into an award-winning recipe. Her Spamilicious Corn Chowder Pot Pies won the $3,000 grand prize in the Great American Spam Championship.

Spam championship contestants enter their concoctions at 40 state and country fairs around the country, and winners are notified by the spring. Buerger’s victory over nearly 700 entries came after entering the contest off and on for years.

Buerger, who also won first place in the Arizona State Fair last fall, credits her win to the pot pie’s comforting flavors – the creamy corn, smoked paprika, phyllo dough crust and, of course, the salty bite of Spam or Spam bacon.

“I just started putting things I like together, creating a dish that brings out the best of Spam, ” she said. “This year it worked.”

DARLENE BUERGER’S

SPAMILICIOUS CORN

CHOWDER POT PIES

1 can Spam, 12-ounces, with bacon or Spam classic, finely diced

1 medium onion, diced

one-half cup melted butter, divided

one-fourth cup all-purpose flour

1 cup chicken broth

1 cup half-and-half

one-fourth teaspoon smoked paprika

one-fourth teaspoon chicken bouillon

1 cup corn, slightly thawed

one-half package, or 8 ounces, phyllo dough, thawed

In large skillet, over medium heat, saute Spam and onion in one-fourth cup butter until the onion is softened and the Spam is lightly browned. Reduce heat to low and add the flour; cook and stir for 1 minute.

Stir in the chicken broth and increase the heat to medium. Continue stirring as broth thickens. Add the half-and-half, paprika, bouillon and corn. Cook and stir for an additional 1-2 minutes or until sauce thickens. Remove from heat and set aside to cool slightly.

Remove phyllo dough from the refrigerator. Working quickly, separate two sheets of dough and crisscross the sheets over 4 individual (4-inch) glass custard cups or springform pans. Gently press dough into pans (allowing the excess dough to hang over the edge).

Brush the bottom of the dough with melted butter. Repeat this process two more times with phyllo dough and butter. Pour prepared filling into the pans. Press excess dough over filling, brushing pastry with butter after each fold. Brush the top of each pastry with butter. Place custard cups or springform pans onto a baking sheet.

Bake at 375 degrees for 20 minutes or until the tops of each pie are golden brown. Remove pot pies from oven and let stand for 5 minutes before serving. Carefully remove pies from pans. Makes 4 servings.

With low-carb eating back in its rightful spot alongside cabbage soup and grapefruit diets, we again are celebrating foods that give comfort and energy.

We are cooking and ordering three of our favorites – potatoes, pasta and rice – without feeling the guilt of committing a dietary no-no. We’re carbo-loading again and proud of it.

“So many of the messages in the last decade have been negative: ‘Don’t eat carbs. Don’t eat this or that.’ People are ready to enjoy food that tastes good and is good for you – like carbs,” says Cynthia Harriman, spokeswoman for the Whole Grain Council in Boston. “The carb mania finally has subsided.”

Carbohydrates, an important part of any healthy diet, are the body’s No. 1 choice of fuel. Before the Atkins and South Beach diets vilified and blamed carbs for super-sizing our bellies, they were accepted as the building blocks of a sensible eating plan.

Today, carbs have regained the respect they deserve, with the realization by former low-carb disciples that, when eaten regularly, carbs do not lead to weight gain unless they are gobbled to excess.

“It never made sense to me that people believed that if they stayed away from pasta for more red meat they would be thinner and healthier. Those of us who know the power of pasta survived the attack by realizing that moderation eventually will prevail,” says Wade Moises, chef at Sassi, a high-end Italian eatery in Scottsdale.

“Carbs were never the enemy, and finally the low-carb (craze) is exposed as the fad it was.”

Nutritionists, in fact, recommend a carb-heavy diet. Calories should be divided this way: 40 to 50 percent from carbohydrates; 20 to 30 percent from protein; and 30 percent fat.

Pasta, potatoes and rice – the three missed sorely during the no-carb era – also provide essential nutrients and little harm.

• Pasta is fortified with folic acid, an essential B vitamin. A half-cup serving of cooked pasta contains a mere 99 calories, less than half a gram of fat and less than 5 milligrams of sodium.

• Potatoes are high in vitamin C, fiber and potassium. They contain no fat or cholesterol and minimal sodium. And a 6-ounce potato contains 3 grams of highly digestible protein, almost as much as half a glass of milk, making it a great foundation for a whole meal.

• White rice is a good source of insoluble fiber, low in fat, contains some protein and plenty of B vitamins.

Nutrients weren’t enough, however, for rice, pasta and potatoes to make “good” carb lists with high-fiber, slow-burning types such as lentils and beans. Instead, they often found themselves on the “bad” carb lists with Twinkies and sugary cereals.

“The attack on the potato was unfair and misleading. We were on the wrong list as far as the low-carb movement was concerned,” says Frank Muir, president of the Idaho Potato Commission, which fought back four years ago with an expensive advertising campaign celebrating the potato’s virtues.

These three carbohydrate staples also provide culinary vessels for other favorite foods: macaroni tossed in a creamy cheese sauce, mashed potatoes spiked with wasabi, pasta topped with fresh chopped tomatoes and garlic or rice stir-fried with broccoli and peppers.

The key is eating these time-tested and economical favorites in moderation.

“A small bowl of pasta is wonderful,” Moises says. “A tub is too much.”

The Mexican cowboys of west Texas who first turned a cut of a steer tough as boot leather into a meal would be hard-pressed to recognize today’s tonier versions.

Their fajitas consisted of the scrap meat of a steer, seared over the campfire and wrapped in tortillas. Ask for fajitas in Mexico City and you will probably be directed to the nearest lingerie store, says the American Dialect Society. That’s because in Spanish, faja means “girdle” and fajita means “little girdle” or “little belt.” It’s the same piece of meat we call skirt steak in English.

“The meal was simple, the beef naked,” says Michael Ludwig, the creator of Texmex.net, a Web site devoted to a cuisine that blends Texas cowboy and Mexican. “Theirs was a survival meal, nothing like what we now call fajitas.”

Today, the term fajitas describes just about anything served rolled up in a soft flour tortilla, from shrimp to squash. This once no-frills vaquero (cowboy) meal is now seasoned with chiles and citrus and paired with slivers of onion, chiles and peppers.

Despite its radical remake, this Tex-Mex staple’s appeal has grown in gigantic leaps since its creation in the late 1930s.

“Restaurants have done a lot to popularize fajitas, and now home cooks are discovering what the Texas cowboys knew years ago: They are a quick and flavorful meal that can be grilled in less than 15 minutes,” says Amy Ahrensdorf, chef for SunWest Appliance Distributing Showroom in Tempe.

The key is combining the right balance of flavors, from tongue-burning strips of chile to tangy lime marinade, she says. No one flavor should overpower the others.

For beef, the marinade should include acid ingredients such as lime juice to tenderize the meat. The best fajitas are made from meat marinated for up to 24 hours. Great marinades can include packaged seasoning, salad dressing and tequila.

“The glory of fajitas is that you can make them simple or elaborate, depending on whether they are for a quick midweek meal or for entertaining,” Ahrensdorf says.

Leftovers? Slice last night’s beef, chicken, pork or roasted vegetables and reheat on the grill for fajitas.

“I tell busy families that not only are they easy to make, but cleanup is a snap because there are no pots and pans,” she says.

According to purists, the only true fajitas are made from skirt steak. And the meal is 100 percent Tex-Mex, not Mexican.

“So many people like to claim fajitas as their own, but this meal belongs to Texas,” says Elizabeth Blakeley, author of “The San Antonio Tex-Mex Cookbook” (Caxton Press, 2000, $11.95). “We’re just happy to share it with everyone.”

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RECIPES

With fresh meat or leftovers, fajitas can be simple or elaborate. And there are no pans to wash.

The Arizona Republic

Grilled Chicken Fajitas with Mango Chipotle Sauce

2 teaspoons garlic, minced

2 tablespoons olive oil

3 tablespoons lime juice, freshly squeezed

1/4 cup cilantro

1/2 teaspoon salt and pepper, plus 1/4 teaspoon salt

1 pound boneless, skinless chicken breast, pounded to even thickness

1 large red onion, sliced into thick slices

2 large poblano peppers, sliced into 1/4-inch slices

4 fajita-size tortillas

Mix garlic, 1 tablespoon olive oil, 3 tablespoons lime juice, 1/4 cup cilantro and 1/2 teaspoon each salt and pepper in bowl. Pour marinade into a resealable plastic bag. Add chicken breasts and refrigerate for at least 1 hour and up to 3 hours.

For vegetables, combine red onions and peppers into a large bowl. Toss with 1 tablespoon olive oil and 1/4 teaspoon salt. Can be prepared 3 hours ahead. Refrigerate until ready to grill.

Place a portable grill or nonstick grilling sheet on a gas grill for the vegetables. Preheat griddle and grill on high heat for five minutes, with hood down. Reduce grill area heat to low and grill chicken over direct heat about five minutes per side, or until cooked to an internal temperature of 165 degrees. Remove chicken from grill, cover with foil and let stand for five minutes. Toss vegetables onto the hot griddle or grill sheet surface and cook, hood down, until onions and peppers are soft and lightly browned. Use tongs to turn occasionally.

Mango chipotle sauce
1 large mango, peeled, seeded and puréed

1 1/4 teaspoons canned chipotle chile in adobo, puréed

1 teaspoon chopped cilantro

1/2 teaspoon lime juice, freshly squeezed

1/2 teaspoon brown sugar

Purée mango and place 1/2 cup in a small bowl. Add chipotle puree, cilantro, lime juice, brown sugar and salt to taste. Mix until combined and set aside. Can be prepared 3 hours ahead. Refrigerate until serving.

To assemble, heat tortillas in microwave between sheets of paper towels for about 15 seconds. Slice chicken into 1/2-inch strips and place on half of each tortilla. Add 1/4 of the cooked vegetables and spoon on 1/4 of the mango chipotle sauce. Fold and serve.

Makes 4 servings.

Source: Tempe chef Amy Ahrensdorf

Pork Fajitas

1 tablespoon chili powder

1/2 teaspoon oregano

1/2 teaspoon paprika

1/2 teaspoon ground coriander

1/4 teaspoon garlic powder

1 pound pork tenderloin, cut into strips 1/2-inch wide and 2 inches long

1 small onion, sliced

8 whole-wheat flour tortillas, about 8 inches in diameter, warmed in the microwave

1/2 cup shredded sharp Cheddar

cheese

4 medium tomatoes, diced

4 cups shredded lettuce

1 cup salsa

Prepare a hot fire in a charcoal grill or heat a gas grill or broiler to medium high or 400 degrees. In a small bowl, stir together the chili powder, oregano, paprika, coriander and garlic powder. Dredge the pork pieces in the seasonings, coating completely.

Place the pork strips and onion in a cast-iron pan or grill basket. Grill or broil at medium-high heat, turning several times, until browned on all sides, about 5 minutes.

To serve, spread an equal amount of pork strips and onions on each tortilla. Top each with 1 tablespoon cheese, about 2 tablespoons tomatoes, 1/2 cup shredded lettuce and 2 tablespoons salsa. Fold in both sides of each tortilla up over the filling, then roll to close. Serve immediately.

Makes 4 servings.

Source: Mayo Clinic

Beef Fajitas

Ask the butcher to trim the excess fat and tenderize the skirt steak.

1 large beef skirt steak, approximately 3 pounds

2 tablespoons fajita seasoning

1 cup yellow onion, diced

2 tablespoons fresh garlic, chopped fine

1/4 cup fresh cilantro, chopped fine

8 ounces zesty Italian salad dressing

1 large green bell pepper, cored, seeded and sliced into 1/8-inch slices

1 medium yellow onion, peeled and sliced into 1/8-inch slices

1 tablespoons olive oil

2 cups mesquite chips

8 flour tortillas

Pico de gallo, picante sauce, guacamole or sour cream, as needed (optional)

Sprinkle the fajita seasoning on both sides of the shirt steak. Gently push the seasonings into the meat with the palm of your hand.

Combine the Italian dressing, 1 cup onion, garlic and cilantro in a bowl and whisk to combine well. Pour into a large container with a locking top or a large plastic zip-top bag. Add the skirt steaks and make sure all areas of the skirt steak get coated with the marinade. Cut the skirt steak in half if necessary.

Marinate the skirt steaks at least 4 hours or overnight. To cook the fajitas, light a mound of charcoal briquettes or a gas grill. Place mesquite chips into a bowl and cover with water. Soak at least 15 minutes.

Remove the skirt steak from the marinade. Drain the water from the mesquite chips and add the chips to the hot coals. Place the steak on the grill and sear about 2 minutes. Turn over and repeat searing. Move steak to indirect heat, cover and cook approximately 8 to 10 minutes on each side. When done, remove the steaks. Cover and keep warm.

Place a grill mat on the grill. In a mixing bowl, toss onion and pepper slices with olive oil. Place on grill mat and cook, turning occasionally, for about 5 minutes or until onions and peppers begin to char. Meanwhile, cut skirt steak against the grain into 1/4 inch thick strips. Mix steak with onions and peppers. Serve immediately with tortillas and any optional garnishes.

Makes 4 servings.

Source: www.texmex.net

Say nuts, and many of us think of peanuts. But peanuts are a legume, along with dry beans, peas and lentils.

So what is a nut?

Botanically speaking, a nut is a dry fruit consisting of an edible kernel or meat enclosed in a woody, leathery shell.

There are several varieties of nuts, and they vary in taste and nutritional content. Nutritionists recommend eating 11/2 ounces, or one-third cup, a day to help keep your heart healthy.

Expand your culinary experience with nuts by tasting new varieties. The following are widely available in grocery stores:

Almond
These have the highest protein content of any nut and are a valuable food for vegans and vegetarians. Almonds are rich in minerals, magnesium, potassium, phosphorous, calcium, mono-unsaturated fat and the same acid in olive oil that protects against heart disease. Almonds have diverse uses in cooking. Bitter almonds are used for almond oil, added to many dishes as a flavoring. Sweet almonds are used in both sweet and savory dishes.

Brazil
Brazil nuts have about 2,500 times as much selenium as any other nut. Selenium is a powerful antioxidant that protects against heart disease and cancers, as well as stimulates the immune system. Like all nuts, Brazils are an excellent source of protein and fiber. The Spanish discovered Brazil nuts in the 16th century and used them to feed their hungry troops on conquests across the South American continent.

Cashew: Cashew nuts, with their sweet, buttery flavor, are popular eaten alone, as a nut butter and in sweet and savory dishes. All nuts have a high fat content, but cashews have a different fat profile: They are lower in fat overall, but higher in saturated fat. Cashews also provide essential fatty acids, B vitamins, fiber, protein, carbohydrate potassium, iron and zinc.

Hazelnut
Also known as filberts or cobnuts, they contain a high proportion of essential oils and supply a well-balanced mixture of vitamins and minerals. Hazelnuts are one of the few nuts containing vitamin A, which is a natural antioxidant and has cancer-preventing properties.

Pecan
These delicate nuts are an excellent source of protein and contain energy-producing nutrients – carbohydrates. The fat found in pecans is mostly polyunsaturated and contains no cholesterol. Pecans add fiber to your diet and contain iron, calcium, vitamins A, B and C, potassium and phosphorous. Sprinkling 10 large pecan halves on your salads, toppings, vegetables, meat dishes and desserts will add 65 nutritious calories to your diet.

Walnut
There are more than 15 varieties of walnut, but the most popular is the English walnut. Its shape resembles that of the human brain, and in medieval times it was widely believed to cure headaches. Walnuts have been used in cooking for many generations, both in sweet and savory dishes. One ounce of walnuts – about 14 shelled walnut halves – is all that is needed to meet federal guidelines for daily requirements of omega-3 fatty acids.

Pistachio
These nuts, cultivated for more than 10,000 years, are usually salted and, because of the high sodium content, should be eaten only in small quantities. However, unsalted they are an excellent addition to any diet, particularly vegan or vegetarian. In addition, a pistachio or two daily could help reduce cholesterol levels, a new study suggests.

It’s 6:30 p.m. and you’re met at the door by growling stomachs and the sinking realization that you forgot – again – to thaw chicken for dinner.

If the pantry’s stocked, there’s no need to dial for takeout pizza.

Stocking dinner-friendly foods means no problem if you forgot to plan. A few key ingredients – canned tuna, curry paste, pasta, rice and garbanzo beans – make it a cinch to get dinner on the table.

A well-stocked kitchen also saves money. Grabbing last-minute takeout meals can add up, while pantry meals for a family of four cost $10 to $15.

Experts recommend an inventory of your pantry before buying new foods. Throw out anything past its expiration date, and donate food that’s good but that you no longer want.

Avoid a frustrating search for ingredients by grouping like foods together – pastas and rice, soups and grains. Store at eye level the ingredients you use the most, and store small items such as potatoes, onions and garlic in baskets.

After filling the pantry, stocking the freezer with foods that thaw easily or can be cooked frozen – chicken tenders, shrimp, scallops and frozen vegetables – makes it even easier to create a last-minute meal.

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BASICS TO KEEP ON HAND
Dried foods
Pasta

Egg noodles

Chinese noodles

Couscous

Lentils or split peas

Rice

Nuts

Fruits

Chiles

Canned foods
Beans

Tomatoes (paste, puree, diced, sauce)

Pasta sauces

Corn and other vegetables

Fruits

Mushrooms

Stocks (vegetable, chicken, beef)

Soups (canned, boxed, dehydrated)

Meats

Coconut milk

Jarred foods
Pesto

Sun-dried tomatoes

Tapenades

Capers

Pickles

Hoisin sauce

Pickled vegetables

Dried mushrooms

Mango chutney

Roasted red peppers

Olives

Peanut butter

Red or green curry paste

Root cellar
Onions

Potatoes

Loaf of bread

Crackers

Condiments
Mustards

Ketchup

Worcestershire sauce

Soy sauce

Salsa

Horseradish

Dry white wine, dry sherry or white grape juice

Extra virgin olive oil

Vinegars

Mayonnaise

Spices
Dried basil

Granulated garlic

Kosher salt

Pepper

Cayenne

Chile powder

Oregano

Rosemary

Thyme

Paprika

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PANTRY INVENTORY

Ways to keep your pantry safe and efficient:

• Store staples in a cool, dry and dark place. Storage temperatures should be as close to 70 degrees as possible.

• Be mindful of expiration dates. Canned meats, soups, pastas and canned vegetables last up to two years. High-acid canned foods such as tomato sauces, canned fruits and vinegars last about one year. Rice and flour last for six to 12 months. Vegetable oils last six months opened and 12 months if unopened.

• Once a can is opened, the food is perishable. Transfer any not used to a covered glass or plastic container and refrigerate.

In two short sentences, 19th-century Prussian statesman Otto von Bismarck saddled sausages with a hard-to-shake image problem.

“Sausages are like laws. It’s better not to see them being made.”

Today, Bismarck would be eating his words.

Sausages no longer come stuffed with the mystery meats – glands, head meat and tails – that prompted Bismarck’s scorn.

Modern-day sausages are filled with ground pork, beef, chicken, veal, salmon and more, with herbs and spices added for flavor. The result: fat and juicy links that take the humdrum out of summer grilling.

“There’s nothing mysterious about our sausage, and I can say with certainty that sausage is no longer an inferior meat. Every year, we sell more, especially for summer grill parties,” says Nancy Schiller, owner of Schreiner’s Fine Sausages in Phoenix.

Grilling links, although new to some, has been done for centuries. Homer makes reference to the Greek soldiers roasting sausages in “The Odyssey,” written more than 2,600 years ago.

“The reason we like sausages off the grill is that not only are they packed with flavor, but they are easy to grill,” says Judith Fertig, who, along with partner Karen Adler, writes grilling cookbooks and travels nationwide promoting grilling (www.pigoutpublications.com).

Chances are those skeptical about cooking sausages on the outdoor barbecue are those who don’t know how to grill them properly. Grill too quickly and the sausage links will turn out as dry as burnt toast. Ditto for parboiling too long.

“Sausages are so easy that you can put a little more effort into the sides to make a summer barbecue or party really special,” Fertig says.

For additional variety, experiment with the newer types, such as chicken basil, tofu, chicken habanero and smoked Southwest turkey.

Schreiner’s customer Mike Koteck of Avondale, appreciates the newfangled choices, but the Milwaukee native is a traditionalist.

“I grew up on brats, and they remain my favorite,” he says.

And how does Koteck cook the links?

“There’s no other way than to simmer in beer and finish off on the grill,” he says. “Sausage doesn’t get any better.”

MAKING SENSE OF SAUSAGE

Many nations and regions have sausages they call their own, and few will argue against a wide range of choices. But for novices, the multiple classifications and numerous varieties can be confusing.

General classifications
Fresh sausage is made from fresh uncured meat, such as pork, beef, veal and chicken, and must be cooked thoroughly before eating.

Fresh smoked sausage is made from fresh or cured meats and is lightly smoked. It, too, should be fully cooked before eating.

Smoked sausages are fully cooked and then smoked for additional flavor.

Varieties
Andouille: This is a spicy, smoked Cajun sausage. Don’t confuse it with the milder French andouille sausage.

Banger: A mild British pork sausage.

Bauerwurst: A chunky German farmer’s sausage, it’s traditionally grilled and served on a bun with sauerkraut.

Bockwurst: This is a mild, white German sausage made with veal, pork, milk and eggs, and seasoned with chives and parsley.

Bratwurst: This is made with pork and sometimes veal, and seasoned with subtle spices. A favorite at tailgate parties, it’s traditionally simmered in dark beer before grilling.

Italian: Varieties range from sweet or mild, which is flavored with garlic and fennel seed, to hot, which is notched up with crushed chili peppers.

Kielbasa: Smoked Polish sausages made with pork or beef and flavored with garlic, pimento and cloves. They come already cooked but should be heated on the grill before serving.

Knackwurst or knockwurst: These smoked beef sausages are seasoned with lots of garlic and should be heated before eating.

Linguica: This is a fairly spicy Portuguese smoked garlic sausage. Grill before serving.

Potato korv: This is a Swedish pork sausage with potatoes added.

Weisswurst: These are mildly seasoned German veal sausages, very light in color.

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COOKING AND CONDIMENTS

Nancy Schiller, and formerly with her late husband, Gary, has sold sausages made fresh daily at Schreiner’s Fine Sausages in Phoenix since the 1960s. She shares these tips:

• Simmer fresh sausages before placing them on a grill. Bring a few inches of water or dark beer to a boil. Reduce heat, add sausages and cover, simmering for eight to 10 minutes.

• Place cooked sausage directly on the grill and slow cook on low to medium-low heat about 10 minutes on each side.

• Grill about 4 inches above the coals and turn with a spatula or tongs, not a fork. Be careful not to pierce the skin and release the juices into the fire.

Cookbook author Judith Fertig suggests jazzing up sausages with flavorful glazes such as almond honey, or grilling on cedar planks. Other tips:

• Consider grilling condiments at the same time, from onions and peppers for Italian sausage to apples for chicken-apple sausage.

• Serve hot off the grill or on a roll. For variety, dice grilled sausage and toss with a bed of baby greens and fresh summer produce. Or use leftovers for pizza toppings or a quick dinner omelet.

• Cole slaw and potato salad are standard side dishes for any sausages, and, again, Fertig recommends unorthodox flavors that complement the bold flavor of sausages, such as blue cheese coleslaw and grilled new potato and fennel salad.

Chef Michael Stebner subscribes to a no-nonsense food philosophy: A carrot should taste like a carrot.

“I don’t try to change a food but rather bring out its natural flavor,” says the new chef at Fox Restaurant Concept’s The Greene House in Scottsdale, Ariz.

Easier done with carrots than chicken. Anyone who has ever grilled, baked or sautéed chicken knows how easy it is to turn out a bird that tastes as dry as a breakfast cereal.

Stebner’s solution: Cook with a brick.

This centuries-old Italian cooking method – pollo al mattone – produces a chicken with crisp, crackling skin and juicy breast and thigh meat. Chicken – like other dense proteins – gets its moisture from natural juices, not fat. And juice disappears more quickly than animal fat.

But when you cook with a brick, its weight holds in the natural juices by cutting cooking time in half, trapping moisture before it has time to evaporate. It also flattens the chicken, which shortens the cooking time as well.

“There’s nothing worse than dry chicken, and nothing better than moist chicken. A brick is your insurance against dry chicken,” Stebner says.

Simply cover a brick – about 60 cents at home-improvement stores – with foil and preheat in oven or on the grill. The easiest way to cook chicken with bricks is on an outdoor grill, but an old-fashioned cast-iron pan also works. The grill or pan and bricks must be hot before cooking the chicken. You also can put the brick on top of any sauce that you typically would use.

Brick cooking also works well with sandwiches and other dense, sturdy proteins like swordfish. On the other hand, brick cooking does not work for beef or delicate seafood. The fat in beef keeps it from drying out, and seafood would crumble under the weight of the brick.

Although far from new, brick cooking is being rediscovered by chefs and cooks looking for a foolproof and simple way to bake or grill chicken.

Swordfish with Polenta and Pepper Salad

6 ounces polenta

salt and pepper, to taste

4 pieces of swordfish (6 ounces each), cut thick

1 pasilla chile, seeded and sliced thin

1 Anaheim chile, seeded and sliced thin

1 red bell pepper, seeded and sliced thin

1 pint cherry tomatoes, cut in half

1 bunch fresh basil, torn

1 tablespoon fresh oregano leaves, torn

2 tablespoons sherry vinegar

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra for drizzling on the fish

4 half-size (half-thickness) bricks wrapped in foil

Prepare polenta according to package directions and season with salt and pepper. Reserve hot while you cook the fish.

Preheat grill with bricks inside. Season steaks with salt, pepper and a little olive oil. Place steaks on grill and cover each with a brick. Cook for approximately five minutes for medium-well fish. To check for doneness, look for small white bubbles of moisture that will be pressed out of the sides of the steaks. Bubbles should be opaque and firm.

For the salad, combine peppers, and tomatoes. Combine oil and vinegar with herbs to make the salad dressing. To serve, pour polenta onto the plate and place swordfish on top. Spoon salad and vinaigrette over fish and polenta.

Makes 4 servings.

Source: The Greene House, Scottsdale, Ariz.

Chicken with Asparagus and Potatoes

1 brick wrapped in foil

1 pound baby potatoes, cut into 1/2-inch-thick slices

1/2 pound large asparagus

1 lemon, sliced thin, seeds removed

8 sage leaves

1 garlic clove, crushed

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided use

sea salt and pepper, to taste

1 natural chicken breast, split, skin on

1/2 cup nicoise and picholine olives

1 tablespoon sherry vinegar

Preheat oven to 450 degrees, with a brick inside a heavy pan.

In a bowl, mix potatoes, asparagus, 4 lemon slices, sage leaves, garlic, olive oil, salt and pepper, until everything is coated with oil and seasonings.

Pour vegetables onto a roasting pan or baking sheet and cook in preheated oven for 12 minutes or until potatoes are easily pierced with a knife.

Meanwhile, preheat a heavy, ovenproof sauté pan on the stovetop on medium-high heat.

Season chicken liberally on both sides with salt and pepper.

Once the sauté pan is very hot, add 2 teaspoons olive oil and carefully place the chicken, skin side down, in the pan.

Remove the hot pan, with the brick inside, from the oven. Place the brick on top of the chicken

Place the pan, with chicken and brick, into the oven and bake for 10 minutes.

Remove pan from the oven and place it back on the stovetop over high heat until chicken skin is brown. Remove the brick from the chicken and check for doneness.

Serve the chicken over the vegetables and drizzle with sherry vinegar and olive oil.

Makes 4 servings.

Source: The Greene House, Scottsdale Ariz.

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Americans botched Yorkshire pudding, the traditional English pastry-wrapped beef pie, and we’ve been eating the mistake with gusto ever since.

We call them popovers.

According to food historians, an anonymous American cook who baked England’s Yorkshire pudding without the traditional beef drippings created these light, hollow rolls with bulbous tops in the 1800s.

Today, these odd-looking rolls that “pop” out of the pan are enjoying a renaissance as a new generation discovers how delicious an error can taste.

At Sweet Basil Gourmetware and Cooking School in Scottsdale, classes on popovers are filled with those who are curious about but intimidated by these flour, milk and egg rolls.

“It’s like fricassee,” cooking instructor Amy Barnes says. “People have heard about popovers but are not quite sure what they are.”

Lesson No. 1: They look fancy but are inexpensive and simple to bake.

Traditionally, popovers are sliced open and served with fresh butter and jam. But the sweet or savory rolls can be filled with warm cheese and served as a side dish for dinner, crab salad for lunch and poached fruit for dessert and are showing up on trendy restaurant menus from London to Washington, D.C.

You also may add flavors to the batter, including chili powder, fresh dill, and oregano.

“You can adapt a popover to whatever you are serving,” Barnes says. “Or you can eat them right out of the oven.”

How to prepare a popover that won’t flop:

● Do not mix too aggressively. The batter should be filled with small lumps.

● Always use all-purpose flour, not bread or cake flour.

● Use whole milk. Popovers can be made with skim milk, but the bottoms end up flimsy.

● Keep the batter at room temperature. They rise better.

● Bake in a popover pan for dramatic balloon tops, not a muffin tin. Popover pans are available at specialty kitchen stores for about $20.

● Bake on the lowest rack and never open the oven door to peek. Steam leavens the popovers, and they likely will collapse if you open the door.

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POPOVER CHEAT SHEET