Freelance
PLANTING YOUR FUTURE

When I began advising people about potentially suitable plants for their landscapes some 30 years ago, a large tree meant one that could become a statuesque 60 or 80 feet tall over time.

Today’s smaller lots have shrunken what is considered to be a large tree, or a medium or small tree for that matter, to the point of miniature proportions.

Most trees needed to define, shade or add dimension to patios in the smaller landscapes constantly challenge us to find plants that have been overlooked and put them to use in new ways.

Two plants I have always thought to be totally underused are acacias from our own desert. The biggest reason that these plants have been overlooked is that all of our desert plants are armed with thorns. On these two, the thorns are fairly small, and not a bit unreasonable to work with.

The two plants I am talking about are Acacia greggii, or catclaw acacia, and Acacia constricta, or whitethorn acacia. Both are on virtually every homeowners association’s list of acceptable plants, and I truly think their underuse has a lot to do with the fact that people have a difficult time thinking what these will become as they mature.

Catclaw acacia (its common name is derived from the shape of the thorns) is the larger of the two. Though it is slow-growing, one will find that growth rate almost a necessity for a plant small in mature stature, because plants don’t grow rapidly to a mature size and stop – it is an ongoing process.

The fragrance of these plants’ flowers alone is enough to recommend them. As soon as we hit our first 100-degree day, they seem to burst into bloom. And while the blooms are cream-colored and not particularly showy, the perfume they emit is the Sonoran desert’s crowning glory of fragrance – light, but incredibly sweet; heady and lingering; profuse both day and night.

The plant itself can be gorgeous. It is best when gently trained into a multitrunk tree and its natural form easily leads to that. As it ages, it becomes gnarly and ancient-looking. Use this small tree in a place where you want lacy shade in the summer and the warmth of the sun in winter. It can be kept easily at 8 feet or developed beautifully to 18 feet and it is hardy to zero degrees.

Whitethorn acacia is slightly smaller and blooms emerge two or three weeks later in the early summer. While out of leaf, the branches have a reddish glow that is attractive in its own right. When it leafs out, it is bright green.

Already many of the other plants’ leaves are looking dull and dusty, and here comes the whitethorn acacia, fresh with its bright new leaves. This is followed by its flower show: bright golden balls in profusion, fragrant, though not so much as the catclaw cousin. A bit smaller, it still has a twisting, gorgeous multi-trunk potential of from 6 to 12 feet and is hardy to 5 or 10 degrees.

Cathy Bishop, co-owner of Mesquite Valley Growers Nursery, has more than 30 years of gardening experience. E-mail her at familyplus@tucsoncitizen.com.

CATHY BISHOP

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OUR FAVORITE COOKBOOKS

‘Country Cooking’

By the editors at Betty Crocker (Wiley, $25.95)

What makes this recipe collection so appealing is that most of the featured dishes are family favorites and authentic.

The 325 recipes are divided into eight main categories: Rise-and-Shine Breakfasts; Blue-Ribbon Lunches and Lighter Fare; Down-Home Poultry and Fish; Country Meats and Mainstays; Fresh from the Garden; Warm Up the Oven; Homespun Desserts; and Icebox Creations. These chapters are in addition to menus, helpful nutrition and cooking information, a glossary of cooking terms and even a metric conversion guide.

The recipes are fast, easy and foolproof. Even though some of recipes are heirloom favorites, all have been adjusted to accommodate the labor-saving resources of today’s modern kitchen. Looking through many of the recipes brought back memories, especially of my grandmother’s country kitchen. The Country Fried Steak with Milk Gravy is almost identical to the way she prepared it. The Wilted Spinach Salad is the real deal as is the Hoppin’ John. I suspect the Chocolate Chiffon Icebox Cake recipe is also the same that was used by my mom when I was a youngster.

More than 80 full-color photos and clear cooking instructions make this collection essential. Whether you want to make a Hot Fudge Cake that doesn’t require eggs, and can be made in less than an hour, or Candied Sweet Potatoes that are reminiscent of family dinners, this cookbook is just one example of why more than 65 million Betty Crocker collections have been sold since 1950.

Three recipes were tested from Country Cooking. Since I have a bumper crop of lemons in my yard, I made a Lemon-Filled Coconut Cake that was moist and absolutely scrumptious. The Avocado-Citrus Salad, which featured lime juice, grapefruit, one large orange and mint leaves, was a perfect pick for a hot afternoon. My third and favorite was a zesty Mexican Beef-and-Bean Casserole.

Tucsonan Larry Cox’s “Shelf Life” reviews of fiction and nonfiction books and his “Treasures & Trends” antiques column run Thursdays in Calendar Plus. For more, go to tucsoncitizen.com/calendar.

E-mail: contactlarrycox@aol.com

Mexican Beef-and-Bean Casserole

1 pound lean ground beef

2 cans (15- to 16-ounces each) pinto beans, drained

1 8-ounce can tomato sauce

1/2 cup mild chunky salsa (I used hot, hot, hot)

1 teaspoon chili powder (I used chili powder from Santa Cruz Chili Co.)

1 cup shredded Monterey Jack cheese with jalapeño peppers

Heat oven to 375F.

Cook beef in 10-inch skillet over medium heat 8 to 10 minutes, stirring occasionally, until brown. Drain.

Mix beef, beans, tomato sauce, salsa and chili powder in ungreased 2-quart casserole.

Cover and bake for 40 to 45 minutes, stirring once or twice, until hot and bubbly. Sprinkle with cheese. Bake uncovered for about five additional minutes or until cheese is melted. Serve.

LARRY COX

Freelance
PLANTING YOUR FUTURE

The first truly warm days are sure to boost many types of jasmine into their bloom cycle, so it’s no wonder we associate warmth with the wonderful fragrance of these flowers.

There are many types of jasmine for varying amounts of sun and temperature requirements – so if you feared that jasmine is a tropical delight to be enjoyed when visiting Hawaii only, think again! Many types will flourish in Tucson.

The very first of the season is Pinwheel or Pink Jasmine (Jasminum polyanthum). This is a subtropical vine that does need some frost protection. It can take full sun, but will still bloom even if it is in a semi-sunny spot, which sometimes is the key in natural frost protection. In nature, tender vines will climb trees that can offer them a bit of coverage during the winter. Pink Jasmine has quite a heavy fragrance, but is usually a welcome delight in the very beginning of the season.

Carolina Jessamine (Gelsimium sempervirens), the next to bloom, really isn’t a true jasmine. Though it has a very light, sweet fragrance and its bright gold flowers signal the fact that warm weather is around the bend, it really doesn’t have enough fragrance, nor is it a vigorous enough grower to fit the profile that most other jasmines have.

Another extremely fragrant and wonderful vine called a jasmine – but is not – is Star Jasmine (Trachelospermum jasminoides). This vine is hardy to the mid-20s and blooms even in the shadiest of locations. The scent is most definitely very similar to true jasmines and its plethora of pure white flowers work hard to convince us that it is a jasmine – but alas, it is not even in the jasmine plant family! But don’t let that stop you from enjoying it and utilizing it in places too shady for true jasmines to flower.

Two old world jasmines that too few people know are Spanish Jasmine (Jasminum grandiflorum) and Italian Jasmine (Jasminum humile). While these plants are not happy to be subjected to temperatures that dip below the mid-20s they love to bask in the sun and their vigorous vines will flow over walls, down hillsides or up (and over) trees if you let them. They are both very sweetly fragrant, never too heavy or cloying; the flowers are large and long lasting; Spanish jasmine is ivory white while its Italian cousin is brilliant yellow.

There are only two other bright-yellow true jasmines; one is Primrose Jasmine (Jasminum mesneyi), and though this is the hardiest jasmine, quite willing to stay green and beautiful through temperatures in single digits – alas, its gorgeous flowers have no scent. The other is Showy Jasmine (Jasminum floridum), a very versatile landscape plant that blooms almost continually March through October. Its scent is very light and though the flowers are very plentiful they’e not big enough to attract the attention shown to its relatives.

As the season gets warmer, tropical jasmines gear up for many months of prolonged blooming. All of these are white flowered, very fragrant and hardy only to slight brushes with temperatures below 30 degrees. Arabian Jasmine (Jasminum sambac) is famous and well known throughout much of the world. It is the “Pikake” found in Hawaii; it is used in teas in the Orient; it is of greatest importance in cultural ceremonies in Indonesia, Java and Bali; and one finds it everywhere in India, woven into hair and clothing. This jasmine has its natural single-flowered form as well as a hybridized double-flowering form called “Grand Duke.”

Another tropical very worthy of mention is Angelwing Jasmine (Jasminum nitidum). It also blooms continually and its form lends itself beautifully to everything from hanging baskets to trellises.

There is surely a jasmine perfect for your location!

Cathy Bishop, co-owner of Mesquite Valley Growers Nursery, has more than 30 years of gardening experience. E-mail her at familyplus@tucsoncitizen.com.

CATHY BISHOP

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OUR FAVORITE COOKBOOKS

‘The Scandinavian Cookbook’

By Trina Hahnemann with the photography of Lars Ranek (Andrews McMeel, $29.99)

Trina Hahnemann is a chef and food writer who began her culinary work as a caterer for such rock stars as Bruce Springsteen, Elton John and members of the Rolling Stones. In addition to her numerous awards and achievements, she owns and runs a cafe in Denmark’s House of Parliament.

Hahnemann has helped define the New Nordic movement, a movement that focuses on purity, freshness and simplicity. In her new collection, she brings that aspect of Scandinavian cooking into the American kitchen. Most of the recipes require fresh, seasonal ingredients, and use user-friendly cooking techniques.

The recipes are supplemented by the images of Lars Ranek who has contributed to more than 20 cookbook collections.

The 115 recipes are grouped into 12 chapters, each part representing a month of the year. The changing seasons with their shifting daylight conditions, as well as strong agricultural and fishing traditions in Norway, Denmark and Sweden, helped to develop a highly differentiated approach to cooking and dining. Those factors are what make this collection so interesting.

More than just a collection of recipes, this new cookbook is a celebration of Scandinavian culture.

Two recipes were tested from “The Scandinavian Cookbook.” Vanilla Custard with Red Currants was rich yet called for just five ingredients. The Kransekage, or almond cake, was a little more complex but equally delicious. This is a collection that is as delightful to look at as it is delicious to test.

Tucsonan Larry Cox’s “Shelf Life” reviews of fiction and nonfiction books and his “Treasures and Trends” antiques column run Thursdays in Calendar Plus. For more, go to tucsoncitizen.com/ calendar. E-mail: contactlarrycox@aol.com

Vanilla Custard with Red Currants

Serves 4

1 vanilla bean

6 pasteurized egg yolks

2/3 cup of superfine sugar

1 1/4 cups heavy cream

1 cup red currants

Split the vanilla bean lengthwise and scrape out the seeds with the tip of a knife. Put the seeds in a bowl with the egg yolks and sugar and beat until pale and fluffy. Whip the heavy cream until it forms soft peaks, then gently fold into the egg mixture.

Pour the mixture into one or more freezer-proof containers and freeze for six hours. The parfait is now ready. Serve with red currants or other fresh fruit.

LARRY COX

Cookbook includes recipes that celebrate Scandinavian culture

Freelance
PLANTING YOUR FUTURE

Oh the fragrance. It seems as if every rose in the county has opened flowers simultaneously and there is nothing quite like the fragrance of roses.

We grow all kinds of plants for all kinds of reasons, but there are few grown for the pleasure of their fragrance as roses are. One might argue that they are equally beautiful, and that is certainly true.

No matter what the reason one grows roses, all rose gardeners feel unjustly attacked when they hear someone proclaim that roses are hard to grow. Anything that we love deserves the effort to do it right, and that makes success an easy result!

Here are the basics to growing roses that will surprise your friends and repay your efforts!

• Soil: You have probably noticed that roses are not a desert dweller by nature. Soil content is one of the most important things to make them comfortable and productive.

Our soil lacks nitrogen, and it also lacks the organics that provide and hold both nutrient and water. The first important thing is to do a great job of amending your soil. You have one chance to do that when you are preparing the planting hole.

Unless you have the time to devote to eight or 10 times a day fogging – you should NOT plant bare root roses. Our climate has very little humidity and unless one replaces that on an hourly basis you will not have good success. So don’t plant bare root. It is well worth the extra $10 to buy roses well rooted into a container and fully leafed out and healthy.

Grade A (or No. 1) roses mean they are the best, and I wouldn’t settle for anything less! To plant a 5 gallon-size rose, prepare a hole that is 2 1/2 feet deep and 2 1/2 feet wide. Add no less than 30 percent organic matter – either compost, soil conditioner or planting mix. The better the quality of the organics, the more moisture and nutrient they will hold.

• Sun: Roses need sun – they will be spindly and have fewer blooms if they don’t get enough sun. No, the sun will not fry them if they are well watered. We grow ours in all day sun . . . from the moment it comes up until it goes down!

• Water: Roses need to be weaned, like all other woody plants, from a starting point of daily water, to a finishing point of no more than once a week (twice if your soil is very sandy). Over an eight- to 10-week period, the roots are acclimated to less frequent, but deeper waterings to reach the desired result.

• Nutrient: Food, fertilizer, nutrient – whatever your terminology – roses are big eaters! I’ve seen that they are not terribly picky, though I would like to believe that they prefer organic to chemical fertilizers. We know the soil prefers organic . . . and if you build the soil – it will help feed the plant. So to keep it simple use a high-quality organic granular fertilizer once a month from February to December.

Now for the hard part – you have to choose from hundreds of colors and fragrances to find the perfect ones for you!

Cathy Bishop, co-owner of Mesquite Valley Growers Nursery, has more than 30 years of gardening experience. E-mail her at familyplus@tucsoncitizen.com.

CATHY BISHOP

Growing roses in the desert doesn’t have to be thorny task

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OUR FAVORITE COOKBOOKS

“Blend It!”

By the editors of Good Housekeeping (Sterling Publishing. $14.95)

Each spring, many Tucson cooks move their blenders to the top of their kitchen counters because during the warmer weather months it becomes not just an appliance but THE appliance.

In recent years, a series of cookbooks have proved that the blender isn’t just for making smoothies. With a little imagination and guidance, it can also help whip up delicious soups, sauces, pancakes and even chicken liver pâté.

In this Good Housekeeping collection, the 150 recipes have been triple-tested and are divided into six main chapters: Smoothies & Blender Breakfasts; Soda Fountain & Coffee Bar Favorites; Fizzes, Slushes & Frozen Cocktails; Sensational Soups; Dips, Sauces & Salad Dressings; and Pancakes, Popovers & Waffles. In addition to the recipes, there is the latest buzz on blenders. For example, safety tips, how to get the most out of your utensil, and what to look for when purchasing a new one.

The recipes are fairly straight forward. Most of the smoothies and slushes are old family favorites. The surprises are in the chapter on soups. Three are especially interesting: a Butternut-Apple Soup that features squash and fresh apples, a delicious Cream of Asparagus Soup that is a snap to make, and a Creamy Buttermilk-Beet Soup (it’s better than you think).

Two recipes were prepared from this collection. On a hot afternoon, I made a bracing Strawberry Margarita. For supper later that same day, I made the Creamy Buttermilk-Beet Soup, which required just four ingredients. Both the cocktail and soup were prepared in less than 10 minutes.

Tucsonan Larry Cox’s “Shelf Life” reviews of fiction and nonfiction books and his “Treasures and Trends” antiques column run Thursdays in Calendar Plus. For more, go to tucsoncitizen.com/ calendar. E-mail: contactlarrycox@aol.com

Creamy Buttermilk-Beet Soup

Makes 4 cups

2 cups buttermilk

1 can (14 1/2 to 15 ounces) beets, drained

1/2 teaspoon salt (I used sea salt)

1 tablespoon minced fresh dill, with additional dill sprigs for garnish

In blender, combine buttermilk, beets, and salt. Blend until smooth. Pour mixture into a large bowl; stir in minced dill. Cover and refrigerate until chilled. Garnish will sprigs. Serve with homemade bread.

LARRY COX

contactlarrycox@aol.com

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OUR FAVORITE COOKBOOKS

‘Pillsbury Fast Slow Cooker Cookbook’

From the editors of Pillsbury (Wiley, $19.95)

The slow cooker has become one of the most important tools in the modern American kitchen. It can be a lifesaver when it comes to preparing great-tasting, home-cooked meals when time is in short supply. A new cookbook from the editors of Pillsbury serves up 140 recipes that get busy cooks in and out of the kitchen with as little as 15-minute prep time. The test with any cookbook isn’t necessary just the length of time to prepare recipes but how good they taste.

In addition to a short overview of the secrets of slow cooking success, there are six main chapters: Family Favorite Chicken & Turkey; Tasty Beef Main Dishes; Busy-Day Pork and Sausage; Stews, Soups & Chiles; Hearty Warm Sandwiches; and Great Sides & Starters. There are also a metric conversion guide and helpful nutrition and cooking information.

Most of the featured recipes are comfort foods. What sets this collection apart, however, is that by minimizing chopping and extra steps such as browning meat, prep time is dramatically cut. The ingredients are also accessible. For example, armed with a can of refrigerated biscuits or a jar of green salsa, Chicken Pot Pie and Chicken Tortilla Soup are a snap to prepare.

One of my favorite parts of this cookbook is a list of tips for adapting favorite family recipes to the slow cooker. There are also flavorful suggestions for dressing up a slow-cooked meal just before it is served at the family supper table.

In these economically challenging times, this cookbook is a true asset. It offers not only speed and convenience but money saving recipes and delicious recipes that will be family crowd pleasers throughout the year.

I tested two recipes from this collection: a hearty Hungarian Stew and a delicious Autumn Pork Roast dinner made with apple cider and sweet potatoes. Both were successful.

Tucsonan Larry Cox’s “Shelf Life” reviews of fiction and nonfiction books and his “Treasures and Trends” antiques column run Thursdays in Calendar Plus. E-mail: contactlarrycox@aol.com

Hungarian Stew

Prep time: 15 minutes

Serves 8

Ingredients:

2 pounds lean boneless beef chuck roast cut into small bite-size pieces

2 cups ready-to-eat baby-cut carrots

1 medium onion, sliced (1 1/2 cups)

1 medium green bell pepper, sliced

1/3 cup all-purpose flour

3 teaspoons paprika

1/2 teaspoon salt (I used sea salt)

1/2 teaspoon dried thyme leaves

1/4 teaspoon pepper

1/2 cup chili sauce

1 can (14 ounces) beef broth

2 cups sliced fresh mushrooms

1 bag (16 ounces) uncooked wide egg noodles (10 cups)

1 8-ounce container of sour cream

2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley

In a 4 quart slow cooker, mix beef, carrots, onion and bell pepper. Add flour, paprika, salt, thyme and pepper. Toss to coat. Stir in chili sauce and broth.

Cover, cook on low setting for 7-8 hours.

Stir mushrooms into stew. Cover, cook on low setting 20 to 30 minutes longer or until mushrooms are tender. Meanwhile, cook noodles per package instructions and drain.

At serving time, stir sour cream into stew until well mixed. Spoon noodles into individual shallow bowls. Top each with stew and sprinkle tops with parsley.

LARRY COX

Pillsbury cookbook offers quick, cheap and hearty meals

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OUR FAVORITE COOKBOOKS

LARRY COX

contactlarrycox@aol.com

By Carol Fenster, Ph. D (Wiley, $35)

It isn’t easy to prepare meals for those who have wheat allergies, gluten intolerance, or celiac disease. Carol Fenster, an internationally recognized food expert, discovered that she was gluten intolerant more than two decades ago. Since then, she has spent much of her time developing gluten-free strategies and helping others who need to make the transition to a free-gluten lifestyle.

Most recipes for even basic pies, cakes, pastas and breads contain wheat, the most common source of gluten. Since even packaged foods such as dressings and seasons may contain it, consumers must be educated and vigilant.

If your household requires gluten-free cooking, this new collection of recipes will be essential and indispensable. There are recipes that are suitable for almost every meal of every day. Best of all, the selections are fairly easy to prepare and delicious.

This massive 700-page book is divided into 17 chapters: Pancakes, Waffles and Other Breakfast Foods; Quick Breads and Muffins’ Yeast Breads; Appetizers and Snacks; Salads and Soups; Sandwiches, Wraps and Tacos; Pastas; Grains and Beans; Fish and Seafood; Poultry; Meats; Vegetables; Cookies and Bars; Cakes and Cupcakes: Pies and Pastries; Fruit and Custard Desserts; and Homemade Gluten-Free Ingredients. There is also a new outline for a gluten-free diet that is compatible for our 21st century.

Two recipes were tested from this cookbook, a delicious Corned Beef and Cabbage – since St. Patrick’s Day is just around the corner – and a surprisingly good Chocolate Mayonnaise Cake (yes, I said mayonnaise).

This excellent collection features 172 breakfast recipes; 75 for sandwiches, salads, and soups; 106 pasta, grain, bean, and vegetable dishes; 205 for main courses; and 377 for cookies, cakes, pies, and other mouth-watering desserts. Simply put, this is the best gluten-free cookbook I’ve seen and it is highly recommended, even if you aren’t on a restricted diet. It’s that good.

Tucsonan Larry Cox’s “Shelf Life” reviews of fiction and nonfiction books and his “Treasures and Trends” antiques column run Thursdays in Calendar Plus. For more, go to tucsoncitizen.com/calendar.

E-mail: contactlarrycox@aol.com

Chocolate Mayonnaise Cake

Makes 12 servings

3/4 cup boiling water

1/3 cup unsweetened cocoa powder (not Dutch process or alkali)

3/4 cup real mayonnaise (not reduced fat or salad dressing)

1 cup sugar

1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract (I used Mexican vanilla)

2 cups Carol’s Sorghum Blend*

1 teaspoon baking soda

Place a rack in the middle of the oven. Preheat to 350 degrees. Generously grease a 9-inch square nonstick cake pan (gray, not black).

In a small bowl, pour boiling water over cocoa and stir until smooth. Set aside while you measure remaining ingredients.

In a large mixing bowl, beat mayonnaise, sugar, and vanilla extract with electric mixer at medium speed about one minute. Reduce speed to low and beat in cocoa mixture just until incorporated. Gradually add sorghum blend and basking soda, beating just enough that the batter thickens. Spread evenly in the pan.

Bake 25 to 30 minutes or until a cake tester inserted in the center comes out clean. Remove from oven and let cool 10 minutes on a wire rack. Cut and serve immediately.

*Carol’s Sorghum Blend

1 1/2 cups sorghum flour

1 1/2 cups starch/cornstarch

1 cup tapioca flour

Whisk ingredients together until well blended. Store it tightly covered and in a dark, dry place. You may refrigerate or freeze the blend but bring it to room temperature before using.

Makes 4 cups. You can double or triple this recipe.

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OUR FAVORITE COOKBOOKS

LARRY COX

contactlarrycox@aol.com

‘Frozen Desserts’

By Francisco J. Migoya and The Culinary Institute of America (Wiley, $60)

With warm weather just around the corner, it’s time to focus on exciting, innovative frozen desserts.

Francisco J. Migoya, an assistant professor in Baking and Pastry Arts at The Culinary Institute of America, has compiled one of the most comprehensive, essential collections devoted to the preparation and art of frozen desserts. Make no mistake about it, after spending a few minutes with this book, you’ll quickly realize that a frozen dessert isn’t necessarily just a bowl of ice cream.

Chef Migoya documents the history and evolution of frozen desserts along with serving up 200-plus recipes. Covering almost every aspect of frozen dessert production, personal guidelines that worked well for him are also featured. For example, believing that flavor is the most important aspect of desserts – with visual appeal a close second – Chef Migoya recommends using seasonal and the highest quality ingredients possible. And, he adds, even though simple, clean and polished desserts are sometimes difficult to achieve, they are generally the best.

The collection is divided into eight main chapters. In addition to a brief history of frozen desserts, there is an overview of the equipment, machines, tools, and ingredients required to make the perfect frozen dessert. Both dairy-based and nondairy desserts are also highlighted. One of the more intriguing sections is “Finished Items,” a chapter that instructs how to produce, plate, garnish, and serve small desserts, plated desserts, frozen cakes, and even frozen accompaniments to savory courses.

Aspiring pastry chefs and professionals in the industry aren’t the only ones who will find inspiration from this incredible cook. New cooks who want to explore what is possible in the family kitchen will also find the collection instructive and fun.

Some of the better recipes are a delicious Granny Smith Apple and Fennel Sorbet with Fennel Jam, an unusual Burnt Milk Gelato and a bracing Espresso-Cardamon Ice Cream.

I tested two recipes from Frozen Desserts. An abundance of lemons triggered me to prepare a Lemon Curd Ice Cream. It was fairly easy to make and is a close cousin to the frozen custard, a Midwest favorite. Since rum is a basic food group at my house, I also selected the Rum Ice Cream recipe.

Both were successful.

Tucsonan Larry Cox’s “Shelf Life” reviews of fiction and nonfiction books and his “Treasures and Trends” antiques column run Thursdays in Calendar Plus. For more, go to tucsoncitizen.com/calendar.

E-mail: contactlarrycox@aol.com

Freelance
OUR FAVORITE COOKBOOKS

LARRY COX

contactlarrycox@aol.com

‘Frozen Desserts’

By Francisco J. Migoya and The Culinary Institute of America (Wiley, $60)

With warm weather just around the corner, it’s time to focus on exciting, innovative frozen desserts.

Francisco J. Migoya, an assistant professor in Baking and Pastry Arts at The Culinary Institute of America, has compiled one of the most comprehensive, essential collections devoted to the preparation and art of frozen desserts. Make no mistake about it, after spending a few minutes with this book, you’ll quickly realize that a frozen dessert isn’t necessarily just a bowl of ice cream.

Chef Migoya documents the history and evolution of frozen desserts along with serving up 200-plus recipes. Covering almost every aspect of frozen dessert production, personal guidelines that worked well for him are also featured. For example, believing that flavor is the most important aspect of desserts – with visual appeal a close second – Chef Migoya recommends using seasonal and the highest quality ingredients possible. And, he adds, even though simple, clean and polished desserts are sometimes difficult to achieve, they are generally the best.

The collection is divided into eight main chapters. In addition to a brief history of frozen desserts, there is an overview of the equipment, machines, tools, and ingredients required to make the perfect frozen dessert. Both dairy-based and nondairy desserts are also highlighted. One of the more intriguing sections is “Finished Items,” a chapter that instructs how to produce, plate, garnish, and serve small desserts, plated desserts, frozen cakes, and even frozen accompaniments to savory courses.

Aspiring pastry chefs and professionals in the industry aren’t the only ones who will find inspiration from this incredible cook. New cooks who want to explore what is possible in the family kitchen will also find the collection instructive and fun.

Some of the better recipes are a delicious Granny Smith Apple and Fennel Sorbet with Fennel Jam, an unusual Burnt Milk Gelato and a bracing Espresso-Cardamon Ice Cream.

I tested two recipes from Frozen Desserts. An abundance of lemons triggered me to prepare a Lemon Curd Ice Cream. It was fairly easy to make and is a close cousin to the frozen custard, a Midwest favorite. Since rum is a basic food group at my house, I also selected the Rum Ice Cream recipe.

Both were successful.

Tucsonan Larry Cox’s “Shelf Life” reviews of fiction and nonfiction books and his “Treasures and Trends” antiques column run Thursdays in Calendar Plus. For more, go to tucsoncitizen.com/calendar.

E-mail: contactlarrycox@aol.com

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OUR FAVORITE COOKBOOKS

LARRY COX
contactlarrycox@aol.com

‘Sauces: Classical and Contemporary Sauce Making’

By James Peterson (Wiley, $49.95)

When “Sauces” was first published in 1991, it became an instant
classic. It received the James Beard Foundation Cookbook of the Year
Award and remains an essential reference for every serious cook.

James Peterson has updated his cookbook to make it even more
accessible. The third edition embraces the traditions of diverse
cuisines and features more than 60 all-new recipes. The collection
serves up nearly 450 recipes as well as charts for easy reference on
Classic White Sauces, Derivative Brown Sauces, Classic French Fish
Sauces, Crustacean Sauce Variations plus mouth-watering color
photography that highlights the beauty of the finished dishes.

Comprehensive and steeped in research, “Sauces” provides a classical
foundation from which anyone, from home cooks to professional chefs,
can draw inspiration and gain new insight. Since Americans are making
more healthful choices, many of the featured sauces have been lightened
in accordance with current culinary trends.

Peterson leaves nothing to the imagination in his excellent
collection. For example, there are 20 chapters and hundreds of recipes
for every type of sauce and the dishes they complement, from a basic
Mushroom and Lemon Sauce to the more exotic Bordelaise Sauce Made with
Red Wine Stock. This expanded new edition also contains added
historical material, with special attention paid to French and Italian
cooking. Especially intriguing are medieval and Renaissance recipes
that might be difficult to translate for the modern palate but are
nevertheless fascinating to read.

What makes this collection work is, of course, Peterson’s lack of
pretension. His assuring voice is a common thread throughout the book,
encouraging and guiding.

This lively, erudite and authoritative reference is the definitive
modern work on the subject. All of the techniques and know-how needed
to master sauce making are contained in this fantastic book.

Tucsonan Larry Cox’s
“Shelf Life” reviews of fiction and nonfiction books and his “Treasures
and Trends” antiques column run Thursdays in Calendar Plus. For more,
go to tucsoncitizen.com/ calendar. E-mail: contactlarrycox@aol.com

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Short Orders

The Complete Book of Pies: 200 Recipes from Sweet to Savory’

By Julie Hasson (Robert Rose, $24.95)

Nothing compares to the aroma of a pie fresh from the oven. Julie
Hasson, a chef who has written extensively for such publications as Bon
Appetit, Cooking Light and Vegetarian Times, shares 200 of her favorite
pie recipes in her latest cookbook. Baking a pie from scratch can be
surprisingly easy by following Julie’s step-by-step instructions and
fail-safe recipes. The collection is divided into 14 categories: Apple
Pies; Berry Pies & Tarts; Fruit, Pumpkin & Other Pies and
Tarts; Cream Pies; Hand Pies: Little Pies & Tarts; Chocolate &
Nut Pies and Tarts; Crisps, Crumbles, Cobblers & Toppings; Rustic
Pies & Tarts; Savory Pies & Tarts; Crusts; Fillings; Ice Cream
Pies & Toppings; and Sauces, Creams, Glazes & Toppings. In
addition to the recipes, there are chapters that list the tools and
equipment for making perfect pies, common ingredients and tricks and
tips for rolling dough.

‘American Cheeses’

By Clark Wolfe (Simon & Schuster, $25)

There was a time when the cheese section of the neighborhood
supermarket was limited to two or three selections by Kraft and,
perhaps, one or two other fairly standard choices. Those days are
definitively over as the tastes buds of Americans have become more
accustomed to such complex and exotic cheeses such as Mozzarella,
Camembert, Gouda and their thousands of creamy relatives. Clark Wolf,
the original cheese market manager of San Francisco’s legendary
Oakville Grocery, has compiled a fascinating region-by-region tour of
our country’s best cheese producers. By taking readers into the best
dairies, cheese plants, and small farmstead kitchens, he presents
nothing less than a mouth-watering road trip for those of us who aren’t
content to just merely slice and serve cheese alongside crackers and
fruit. His recipes include a Black Pepper Cheesecake, a superb Green
Chicken Chilaquiles Casserole, and a delicious Lemon-Goat Cheese Tart.

“Baking Unplugged”

By Nicole Rees (Wiley, $29.95)

Most cookbooks that feature baking recipes require expensive
equipment and call for complicated techniques and hard-to-find
ingredients. Not this one. Nicole Rees, a former pastry chef and
editorial assistant for Chocolatier and Pastry Art & Design
Magazines, serves up a collection of 114 simple, back-to-basics recipes
that include everything from muffins to puddings. In addition to the
recipes, Rees offers a primer on ingredients, instructions on how to
properly read a recipe, and the best way to set up an “Unplugged
Kitchen” with minimal equipment. This is in addition to her personal
tips for baking success such as using the top third of the oven for
scones and biscuits since they tend to brown faster. The Anytime Bread
Pudding in this collection is a perfect comfort food with a sumptuous
custard-filling that is even better when consumed the second or third
day.

“Kneadlessly Simple: Fabulous, Fuss-Free, No-Knead Breads”

By Nancy Baggett (Wiley, $24.95)q

Nancy Baggett is a baking expert, food journalist and bestselling
cookbook author who is a frequent contributor to Eating Well, The
Washington Post, and NPR’s All Things Considered Weekend Edition. In
her latest collection, Baggett presents bread recipes that incorporate
a no-knead, slow-rise approach that make it possible for even novice
bakers to create delicious bread reliably and easily in their family
kitchens. In addition to tips, basic know-how, common ingredients and
troubleshooting, the recipes are divided into six main categories:
Easiest Ever Yeast Breads; American Favorites; Old-World-Classics;
Healthful, Whole-Grain, Multigrain and Gluten-Free Breads; Sweet Breads
and Gift Breads; and Toppings, Sauces, Glazes, Drizzles, and Finishing
Touches. The recipe for San Francisco-Style Sourdough Bread is one of
the easiest I’ve found and one of my favorites in this excellent
cookbook.

Freelance
OUR FAVORITE COOKBOOKS

LARRY COX

contactlarrycox@aol.com

‘Pillsbury Best of the Bake-Off Cookbook’

By the editors of Pillsbury (Pillsbury/Wiley, $29.95) Reviewed by Larry Cox

Since 1949, the Pillsbury Bake-Off has attracted home cooks from throughout the country. With more than 100 finalists each year and a $1 million grand prize, it remains one of America’s most famous culinary contests.

This cookbook features more than 400 prize-winning recipes that were selected as favorites in the yearly event. From 1951′s French Silk Chocolate Pie to 2006′s Baked Chicken and Spinach Stuffing, the recipes reflect some of the country’s most innovative and creative cooking.

All of the legendary million-dollar winners are, of course, included. Some of the featured recipes have become true classics such as Ella Rita Helfrich’s Tunnel of Fudge Cake from 1966 that helped popularize the now familiar Bundt pan. The recipes are supplemented with 120 full-color photographs, profiles of the finalists, insights on what motivated winners to become better cooks, as well as special moments in Bake-Off history. There are high altitude instructions, metric conversions, cooking times and nutrition information for each recipe.

The “Pillsbury Best of the Bake-Off Cookbook” is a delight. The chapters include the Best-of-the-Best, all of the Grand Prize winners; Soups & Sandwiches; Main Dishes; Side Dishes & Salads; Appetizers & Snacks; Breads; Breakfast Favorites; Cookies & Bars; Cakes and Tortes; Pies & Tarts; and Other Desserts.

Only one recipe was tested from this collection, the 1996 Grand Prize winner, Kurt Wait’s Macadamia-Fudge Torte. Wait, a single dad from Redwood City, Calif., gave some of the credit to his 8-year-old son, Cy, whom he described as “the best tester there is because he is brutally honest about what he likes.”

Tucsonan Larry Cox’s “Shelf Life” reviews of fiction and nonfiction books and his “Treasures and Trends” antiques column run Thursdays in Calendar Plus. For more, go to tucsoncitizen.com/ calendar. E-mail: contactlarrycox@aol.com

Macadamia-Fudge Torte

Filling:

1/2 cup semisweet chocolate chips

1/3 cup low-fat sweetened condensed milk (not evaporated)

Cake:

1 box Pillsbury Moist Supreme devil’s food cake mix

1 1/2 teaspoons ground cinnamon

1/3 cup vegetable oil

1 can (15-ounce) sliced pears in light syrup, drained

3 eggs

1/3 cup chopped macadamia nuts (or pecans)

2 teaspoons water

Sauce:

1 jar (17-ounce) butterscotch-caramel-fudge topping

1/3 cup milk

Serve with garnish, if desired

Vanilla ice cream, frozen yogurt or chocolate curls

Heat oven to 350 degrees. Spray 9- or 10-inch springform pan with cooking spray. In 1-quart saucepan, cook filling ingredients over medium-low heat, stirring occasionally, until chocolate is melted.

In a large bowl, beat cake mix, cinnamon and oil with electric mixer on low speed 30 seconds or until crumbly (mixture will be dry). In blender or food processor, place pears, cover and blend until smooth.

In a large bowl, beat 2 1/2 cups of the cake mixture, the pureed pears and eggs with electric mixer on low speed until moistened. Then beat on medium speed for 2 minutes, scraping bowl occasionally. Spread batter evenly in pan. Spoon and spread filling over batter to within a half inch of edges. Stir nuts and water into remaining cake mix mixture, sprinkle over filling.

Bake 45 to 50 minutes or until top springs back when touched lightly in center. Cool 10 minutes. Remove side of pan. Cool completely, about 90 minutes.

In a 1-quart saucepan, cook sauce ingredients over medium-low heat for 3 to 4 minutes, stirring occasionally, until well blended. To serve, spoon two tablespoons warm sauce onto each serving plate; top with edges of torte. Serve with ice cream; garnish with chocolate curls.

Citizen Staff Writer
Cheap eats: Sauce

TOM STAUFFER

tstauffer@tucsoncitizen.com

What: Sauce

Address and phone: 2990 N. Campbell Ave. (795-0344), also 5285 E. Broadway (514-1122) and 7117 N. Oracle Road (297-8575)

Hours: 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Sundays-Thursdays, 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays

What was ordered: Mozzarella & Fontina Cheese & Basil pizza ($8.75), Salami, Turkey, Prosciutto and Mozzarella Panini ($8) for a total of $18.11 including tax, within our Cheap Eats goal of a meal for two for less than $20.

Comments: There’s no middle ground around here with the war over Sam Fox and his ever-expanding empire of restaurants.

People seem to either love or hate Fox and his varied culinary endeavors. More than a few of his detractors have let me know that my integrity as a food reviewer was totally shot by having had the unmitigated gall to even set foot in a Fox restaurant (I’ve set foot in all of the Tucson ones), as if my integrity was otherwise unblemished.

Given that even more people are just as passionate and contentious when it comes to what pizza should taste like, Fox’s take on pie – Sauce – may be his most polemical concept to date. It’s also quite possibly his most successful, as there are currently 10 locations – three in Tucson, six in Phoenix, and one in Denver. I use the word currently because Fox opens restaurants the way Walgreens opens drug stores, so by the time you read this, he may have well added another to his empire.

If you’re a fan of Chicago’s deep-dish festival of dough, you’ll think you’re eating a tortilla ormatzo at Sauce. Sauce’s über-thin crust is not quite as crackery as the unleavened St. Louis style, but is not quite as floppy and chewy as New York style. It’s somewhere between the two, or what some would consider a classic Roman style that holds sway in the Trastevere district, with a simultaneously crispy and chewy crust.

Sauce’s Mozzarella & Fontina Cheese & Basil pizza ($8.75) had a delicate – but not skimpy – balance of cheese and tomato sauce, giving off a nice assortment of sweet, salty and acidic flavors to the pie. It’s a simple collection of good ingredients simply prepared to yield a clean, fresh flavor profile.

Equally simple and satisfying was the Salami, Turkey, Prosciutto & Mozzarella Panini ($8), a well-stuffed sandwich served with a side of Red Wine Vinaigrette. As with the pizza, an excellent balance was achieved with the panini’s constituents. The thin-sliced turkey and mozzarella held sway, but were smartly outfitted with a spicy stab from the salami and the richly salty prosciutto, which was generously portioned, particularly given its quality. I didn’t think I’d enjoy the vinaigrette, but it added a nice acidity, and I found myself dabbing the panini into it before every bite.

Sauce does a brisk lunch and dinner business, recession or no recession. This place is used to being busy, so you’ll get in and out in no time, despite that the casual, well-prepared food will most likely have you slowing down to savor its simple, delicate goodness.

Service: Order at the counter and a server brings your food to your table. Service, as is consistently the case with Fox joints, was prompt, energetic and friendly.

Bar: Beer and wine

Children’s menu: yes

Web site: foxrestaurantconcepts.com/sauce

Most recent health inspection: A “Good” rating Jan. 21. A critical violation was reported for potentially hazardous foods not held at proper cooling temperature.

Freelance

LARRY COX

contactlarrycox@aol.com

‘Blue Ribbon Gator’

By Suzanne McGovern with illustrations by Donna Bizjak (Hatch Ideas, $13.99)

In this story, based on a real horse from Dutchess County, N.Y., Gator decides to visit the county fair. He arrives ready to enter the big horse show but is amazed to see horses of every color, shape and size. Each horse, he soon realizes, is special in its own way. When Gator flashes his best smile at the judges, he wins a blue ribbon. This colorful, reaffirming story provides sage advice and encouragement. (Ages 3-9)

‘Ooooh! Picasso’

By Jeanyves Verdu and Mil Niepold (Tricycle Press, $14.95)

The innovative artwork from one of the most important artists of the 20th century is the main attraction of this creative new book. Bright and playful close-ups of Picasso’s sculptures include Guitar (made from sheet metal and wire), Girl Skipping (crafted from wood, ceramic, iron, and plaster) and Baboon and Young (bronze from found objects). The splashy illustrations are certain to inspire many kids to create their own masterpieces from everyday items. (Ages 4-9)

‘A Carousel Tale’

By Elisa Kleven (Tricycle Press, $15.99)

When the tail of a wooden dog comes loose just before winter, Ernst, the carousel keeper, takes it to his workshop. Since it looks sad sitting on the shelf, he carves it into the figure of a bird before realizing that the wooden dog will no longer have anything to wag. This beautifully written new book is by the California-based award-winning author and illustrator Elisa Kleven. (Ages 5-9)

‘The Yankee at the Seder’

By Elka Weber with illustrations by Adan Gustavson (Tricycle Press, $16.99)

In this based-on-a-true-story tale, 10-year-old Jacob wants to show the Yankees that not all Confederates are ready to surrender. He sees a Yankee soldier walking down the street on leave for Passover and is surprised when he is asked for a piece of his matzo. When the soldier is invited to join Jacob’s family for seder, everyone discovers that faith can help heal the wounds of war. (Ages 5-9)

Tucsonan Larry Cox’s “Shelf Life” reviews of fiction and nonfiction books and his “Treasures and Trends” antiques column run Thursdays in Calendar Plus.

For more, go to tucsoncitizen.com/calendar. E-mail: contactlarrycox@aol.com