Don’t fall in love with a specific Arizona wine—just as soon as you commit, it becomes so popular, it flies off the shelf and it’s on to the next vintage. That’s not a bad thing—each vintage seems to improve with age and winemaker experience. It’s delightful to discover a new one each time you make it to a tasting room in one of the three Arizona wine regions—Elgin/Sonoita; Willcox; and the Verde Valley. This week, I’m concentrating on the Verde Valley wine-finds discovered just a few weeks ago. If a wine I recommend is not available, don’t worry; these over-achieving winemakers never stop trying to compete for your palate.

Jerome Winery

Label features family aunt and uncle Paula and Hans Heinemann hugging next to their old automobile Aunt

The town of Jerome has no shortage of interesting tales, wines, and personalities. At the top of the list is creative Jerome Winery and Bitter Creek winemaker John McLoughlin. He wasn’t in town when we visited, but we were greeted by his sister, Melanie, in the Jerome Winery tasting room, where she is seven days of the week, while brother John minds the grapes and the business. She dances behind the copper counter pouring wines and sharing family secrets, often spurred by the individual wine labels depicting memorable family photos.

I most enjoyed the 2007 Jerome Winery Charbono, featuring aunt and uncle Paula and Hans Heinemann hugging next to their old automobile on the label; “Hug and Kisses” describes the tender scene on the back. Melanie shares a fond memory of the couple’s bakery in south Chicago. The unusual grape offered a grand fruity nose, nice fruit-driven tannins and acidity in the mouth, and a medium dry, almost cedary finish. This is a fine ‘sitting around sipping with friends’ choice, but I enjoyed a glass with my ginger-grilled salmon and cabrese.

Bitter Creek Winery

Bitter Creek Hierophant Wine - equal blend of Arizona-grown Cabernet, Syrah, Petite Sirah, and Zinfandel grapes

Our friend McLoughlin is supported by a cast of hard-working family characters that must make it delightful to ply his trade. A few hundred steps down from the Jerome Winery tasting room, we were greeted by Melanie’s husband and John’s brother-in-law, Isiah, who continued to entertain with even more family tales and camaraderie. While Jerome Winery wines are single varietals, the Bitter Creek wines are blends. Each bottle is named after a Tarot major arcana card—and, of course, each one sports characteristics of its own.

I previously reviewed The Fool by Bitter Creek Winery, so this time, I choose The Hierophant by Bitter Creek Winery—described on the label as a “Dogmatically Kind, Spiritual Leader, Speaking Truthfully.” (Isaiah hinted that the labels depict family members; is this one named for John? Ask Isaiah, the next time you stop in to see him in Jerome). This wine is a red blend of equal parts of Arizona-grown Cabernet, Syrah, Petite Sirah, and Zinfandel—it just doesn’t get any fairer than that. The Hierophant delivers with plum and pomegranate flavors and smooth lingering finish…a simply yummy match to my St. Patrick Day-inspired corned beef and cabbage.

Arizona Stronghold

Arizona wines were launched steps closer to the forefront of national notice in 2007, with the coming together of Eric Glomski and Maynard Keenan. Glomski, formerly with David Bruce Winery, is the owner/director of winemaking at Page Spring Cellars; Keenan, owner of Caduceus Cellars, is the lead singer for a band called Tool, Pucifer, and others—together they sport the Arizona Stronghold Vineyards banner.

The majority of their quality fruit is grown in the Dos Cabezas Vineyard near Willcox, AZ. The core of the new plantings of Syrah, Grenache, Mouvedre, Tempranillo, and Sangiovese, Viognier, and Malvasia Bianca are now finding their ways into some of the most palate-pleasing wines in the state. Maynard’s own Merkin Vineyards is also just coming into its own with grapes raised in the high Jerome terroir.

The Site Archive Lozen delivers fruit, spice, and balance

I previously reviewed the Arizona Stronghold Nachise, a Granache-based Rhone blend. This time around, I was drawn to the Arizona Stronghold Site Archive wines that are sold only by Arizona Stronghold. The Arizona Stronghold Site Archive Lozen 2009 is named for a very powerful and skilled Apache warrior and prophet, the inspiration for this powerful yet feminine Bordeaux blend. Cabernet Sauvignon-driven dark blackberry and cassis with Merlot-enhanced aromas of dark fruits and green spices balance out into a lingering Cabernet Franc graphite minerality, smoke-like finish. Great pairing for lamb, pork, steak, or burgers; or for just total enjoyment.

Merkin Vineyards Shinola

I tasted (and bought) the 2008 Merkin Vineyards Shinola at Maynard’s Caduceus tasting room in Jerome. The wine is a Merlot, Cabernet, Sauvignon blend with a nose and notes of earth and vanilla, opening up to delightful flavors of oak and smoke, and finishing strong. I’ll enjoy sharing this with ribs or pork tenderloin on the grill.  This is the final year for the California Shinola and it’s in short supply—however, the Arizona Shinola is bottling now. Only $25/bottle.

Wild Child Red  

Pillsbury Wine Company is the evolution of a dream-come-true project by New Zealand film director and winemaker Sam Pillsbury. Sam flew into Arizona to shoot a pilot for Universal Pictures, fell in love with an Arizona girl, and the Arizona landscape at the same time. 

Pillsbury Wine Company WildChild Red

Growing up in New Zealand Sam witnessed the phenomenon of growing classical wine grapes in unusual places. He thought he could try the same thing here. The location he chose was a high-altitude desert valley in Cochise County, 200 miles southeast of Phoenix. This all came from a desire to get away from mass-produced McDonalds-like wines and create a distinctive regional boutique wine that is 100% Arizona and 100% original. He gambled that the high-altitude, endless sunshine, sandy loam, and dry desert would make for a perfect terroir; in 2000 he planted 20 acres of Rhone varieties. It worked.  

The Pillsbury crowd-favorite WildChild Red is an enchanting value wine at $18/bottle. 100% Arizona grown, this new release is a dry red from a neighboring wild vineyard found dotted with crop circles. It’s a field blend of Syrah, Petite Sirah, Sangiovese, Zin, and Cabernet, to which the winemaker added more Zin from neighbor Golden Rule Vineyards. Red currant and cranberry on the nose with a hint of leather, this finishes with fruity red-berry, orange peel, velvety with a smooth, rounded mouthfeel, according to the tasting notes. I got a bit of smokiness on the finish.

So many Arizona wines, so many more to experience. If your only experience with Arizona wines was 10 years ago, it’s time to hit the trail again. If you’re already a fan, do not worry if a favorite is no longer available; there are plenty more to come, with 45 wineries now producing throughout the state. New varietals are being promised across the state for Spring release. And as they say at the Javalina Leap Winery, no matter what, “Love the wine you’re with.” Cheers!

Don’t miss upcoming chances to taste Arizona wines like the Tempe Art Festival Celebrating Arizona Wines this coming weekend and Tucson’s first ever Arizona Wine Tasting event set for Sunday, April 3 at the CataVinos Wine Shoppe & Tasting Room.

This summer has turned me on to a very special wine varietal, Cabernet Franc. I find that wines of this grape provide that full-bodied, earthy, smoky, tobacco-y mouth-feel that I thoroughly enjoy. As I began my quest for new and different Francs, I was surprised to find so few available on the market.

This is because Cabernet Franc is a red-wine grape that is most commonly used as a blending grape (added to Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot) for Bordeaux-style blends. It built its reputation in France, in Bordeaux and the Loire Valley. It has recently been proven that Cabernet Franc and Sauvignon Blanc were crossed, making them the parent grapes to Cabernet Sauvignon. France by far has the most Cabernet Franc plantings of any wine producing nation – over 35,000 acre. However, it’s been an impossible quest to find a French Cabernet Franc anywhere in Tucson (if you have one, please let me know).

So let’s start with the wine that kicked off this curiosity, M. Cosentino’s FRANC 2007, discovered at CataVinos Wine Shoppe & Tasting Room. This is a full-bodied wine with long, ripe tannins and excellent balance – and a screaming deal for about $15 per bottle. This California Franc has become my favorite go-to wine that serves well with just about anything. I tried this with grilled chicken breasts, portabella mushrooms, and sweet potatoes and found the combination pleasing.

The driest of the Francs I tasted for this review hails from the Maryhill Winery, based in Washington’s Columbia Valley. It was recommended by Mark Thomson, owner of Plaza Liquors. I’m thankful for his suggestion; now Francs intrigue me even more, and I discover the major variance to be the dryness.

After the Maryhill Franc opened up, it became surprisingly lively with a light floral nose. But the flavors of intense tobacco, tar, and leather character really piqued my palate. It’s a real powerhouse, and for that reason, most winemakers choose to blend with Cabernet Franc instead of bottling it at full strength. I’m a big fan of the Franc grape full-strength, can you tell? Nice and dry, the wine cries for rich and savory food pairings, and with a little fat alongside it some of the wine’s more cherry and blackberry-based charms appear. I had it with my dinner of grilled pork tenderloin, homemade green beans and red potatoes — a berry memorable combination. This is a complex wine, well worth a try at this special occasion price of $22 per bottle.

Rum Runners weighed in with a screaming deal on Ironstone Cabernet Franc 2008 by the Kautz Family for only $10. It’s 95% Cabernet Franc, with 5% Merlot, aged 12 months in French and American oak. Balanced and medium-bodied, the nose is bright berry and toasty vanilla with that fantastic hint of tobacco that I adore (it conjures the memory of kissing a once-loved smoker). The flavor is cherry and raspberry with oak and earthy undertones, quite a pleasant quaff. I had this with smoked salmon and grilled peppers and onions, totally savoring the combination.

Topping off my Cabernet Franc tour is Kief-Joshua’s 2007 Cabernet Franc. The  tasting sheet declares this vintage to feature “aromas of plum and blackberry, hinting at a slight earthiness, while being smooth and fruit-forward on the palate.” I found it to be quite earthy enough for my taste, and balanced with a medium-to-dry finish. I’ve made many trips back for more, even though it’s a little beyond my comfortable price range at $24/bottle, but hey, you only live once! I found this most enjoyable paired with a custom-made omelet topped with locally produced salsa and a homemade scone, consumed right there on the patio at the Kief-Joshua Vineyards in Elgin on a Sunday morning.

This tour  isn’t quite over yet … I remain in constant pursuit of new and different Cabernet Franc wines, finding them most enjoyable thusfar; so if you run across others, please let me know.

Email me at pourmesomgrapes@gmail.com or Comment here to weigh in on Cab Francs!