Oatman, Arizona has a fascinating past. Starting out as a mining town, it originally consisted of simple tents. History is a little fuzzy on the some of the facts from the 1880′s, but we do know it was not called Oatman for many years. The Vivian Mining Company took roots around the turn of the century and for awhile the town was named Vivian. But by then, the area already had a colorful past.

Legend says that in 1851, the Oatman family was moving north on an emigrant train. At one point the family separated and eight Oatman members were besieged by Indians. The Oatman Massacre, as it is now known, took the lives of all but three children. These children were taken captive by the indians. Mary Ann, Olive, and Lorenzo. Mary Ann died in captivity. Lorenzo was thrown over a cliff and miracuously survived to search for his remaining sister. In 1856, Olive Oatman was found. She had been tattooed on her jaw, a mark that would always remind her of her ordeal with her Mohave Indian captors. So, in honor of the massacre, Olive’s successful son, John, influenced the town fathers to give the town its current moniker.

In the early years, the town was kept alive by gold strikes. The original post office was founded in 1904, just after the Oatman hotel was finished. Both of these buildings, wooden sidewalks, and many more historical structures remain in Oatman, giving it a real Old West feel. Also being on historic Route 66 sure doesn’t hurt it. Did I mention Clark Gable and Carole Lombard spent their honeymoon in the Oatman Hotel? Serenaded by burros…

Yep, ancestors of the burros used by area miners were released into the mountains. Every day they come down and roam the streets looking for tourists with food. By sunset, they head back into the mountains where they all live in a gated donkey community (ok…maybe not).

Heading up to Oatman might be a nice little Old West getaway. It also holds interest for some other lifestyles. Being on the “Laughlin Run”, Oatman is a favorite spot for motorcycle enthusiasts, and classic car drivers. There’s gunfights, food, shopping, history, and don’t forget about the roving donkeys. In July they hold their annual Sidewalk Egg Frying Contest, and in January there’s bed races!  What could be better? Well…maybe bacon.

Oatman, AZ

The batwing doors swung open and all conversation stopped. As the piano music slowly faded away, all eyes focused with scrutiny on the stranger. I’m guessing if that ever really happened, it was because the stranger was dressed as a clown with big floppy shoes and a squirting flower.

Saloons in the Old West were legendary businesses. Cowboys off the trail would head directly to one and spend the majority of their monthly wages on liquor, gambling, and women of negotiable affections. In a way, they were 19th century man caves. They varied in style from simple tent buildings with a rough plank thrown over beer kegs for a bar, to grandiose buildings with fine furnishings. One thing that was commonplace was the quintessential painting of a nude lady. Men would toast to her, and put her on a pedestal. Jeez, she was just on a wall!

Due to the drinking, swearing, spitting, cigar smoke, and scandalous paintings, society women in the Victorian era were not typically found going in and out of saloons. It was not proper for a lady to be seen in them. Not to mention that drunk men would easily get into gunfights, which makes for a dangerous atmosphere.

Drinks varied from wine, rum, beer, champagne, and of course, whiskey. Tucson’s Cosmopolitan Saloon (now gone) mixed Mescal with whiskey and called the concoction pulque, which apparently caught on briefly in the early 1880′s. This was different than the original ingredients of the Latin American beverage, but the teamsters drinking it probably didn’t know the difference, as long as the alcohol achieved the desired effect. In an effort to make as much money as possible, saloon owners would cut whiskey (or grain alcohol) with numerous ingredients to extend it’s use. Cayenne, turpentine, even snake heads were known to “flavor” the beverage. This whiskey was jokingly titled rotgut, and didn’t win much favor with patrons of discerning tastes.

Historic saloons in Arizona are somewhat plentiful. Surely not the amount that lined both sides of the street in the 1880′s, but examples are numerous.

Prescott’s Whiskey Row has some terrific historic watering holes. Maybe the most popular of these is the Palace Saloon. Founded in 1877, it was not only a tavern, but a barber shop, restaurant, and gambling hall. During the fire of 1900, citizens pulled the historic (and no doubt expensive) mahogany bar into the courthouse square so it wouldn’t burn up. Today, it sits in its rightful place separating the bar area from the restaurant. Adorned with photographs and displays, it is a mini-museum of Prescott and the colorful characters that frequented it.

Tombstone also has representations of libation enterprises. The Crystal Palace, looking very much like it did in an 1880′s photograph, still holds the ambiance of a higher class drinking establishment. Adorned with a tin ceiling and wooden floors, one can experience the phantom scents of cigars, beer, and…whatever that other smell is.

It is interesting to note that many famous Old West characters owned saloons. Lawmen, gunslingers, gamblers, politicians, you name it. Ironically, a lot of them also died in saloons. They say alcohol and firearms do not mix. They’re right. Amazing that Miss Kitty never got shot with all the bullets flying around.

So, the next time you belly up to the bar in a historic saloon, don’t just think about brawls, gunfights, and poker while drinking your shot of Tarantula Juice. Ponder the important decisions regarding our great state that no doubt occurred at that scarred up counter. Treat them with respect, and please don’t shoot holes in the 130-year old ceilings.

Palace Saloon's Famous Bar

Cemeteries in Old West Arizona paint a picture of the hardships the pioneers had to endure. Looking at the markers and their dates, one can only imagine what took the lives of some of these folks. Indian ambushes, sickness, gunfights, hangings, childbirth, and suicides were all very routine for settlers in Arizona Territory. Back then medicine was still somewhat primitive. If you cut yourself shaving and didn’t take medical precautions, you could end up dead. You’d better hope there’s some medicinal whiskey around to cleanse the wound, ‘cause Bactine® ain’t comin’ around for awhile.

The term “Boot Hill” became synonymous with graveyards in the Old West. If a gunslinger died by lead perforation, this violent passing earned the expression, “he died with his boots on.” Tombstone’s Boot Hill has probably the most famous grave markers in the country. The folks who came up with some of those epitaphs certainly were witty. We’ve all heard the famous: Here Lies Lester Moore. Four slugs from a .44. No Les. No More. Another amusing one that tickles me is: He was right, we was wrong. But we strung him up, and know he’s gone.

Incidentally, Tombstone’s Boot Hill is probably one of the most photographed places in Arizona. Many of the players in the Earp/McClaury/Clanton incident are buried there, as well as other notable shootists. You will also find markers that lack important information: Two Cowboys, drowned. Ironically, there are thousands of pioneers and immigrants whose graves have been lost to time, yet these two nameless swimming-challenged drovers were lucky enough to be immortalized.

I’ve visited cemeteries in Fairbank, Adamsville, Pinal, Dos Cabezas, and Florence. In some of the old ghost towns, the bone yard is all that remains. Sadly, time has taken its toll on the markers. Unless they are made of stone, they’ve all but crumbled away. Adamsville, neighboring Florence, basically washed away due to the flooding of the Gila River in the 1800’s. The cemetery remains, and in 1996, a young man named Phil Hawkins cleaned it up and set up a method of identifying the graves. Thanks to his dedication, many relatives can now pay respects to their ancestors. Some of the markers there date back to 1877.

I encourage you to visit the graves of some of these Arizona trailblazers. For me, it solidifies their existence, and punctuates the history. Take some photos; maybe come up with your own whimsical epitaph. Here Lies John. He was not the machine, but merely a cog. Died at his keyboard, typing a blog.

Yeah….I’ll work on that.

A Simple Grave in Fairbank, AZ

Florence, Arizona, was founded in 1866. When many think of Florence, the huge complex of penitentiaries of off highway 79 comes to mind. You know, the ones right after the sign that reads, Prison Ahead. Do Not Pick Up Hitchhikers.

Don’t let this stop you from visiting one of Arizona’s most historic mining cities. In 1909, the overcrowded Yuma Territorial Prison turned over all its inmates to the recently completed Florence prison. Ironically, many of those convicts built the place. If it were me, I would have built my cell with more space and a recliner. Of course, they may not have let hardened outlaws have recliners. Or space.

Main street presents buildings that date back to territorial days, and is one of the highlights of this town. In keeping with the architecture and history, many of these structures along this street have been repurposed. One can find a hardware store, general stores, the Rynning’s Ranger Museum; even an 1880′s hotel now encompasses a fudge shop. The Pinal County Historic Society has terrific displays covering everything from Tom Mix memorabilia to the nooses used to hang criminals at the pen.

There are two historic Pinal County Courthouses in the town. The earliest one is McFarland State Park, built in 1877. It contains a courtyard, Sheriff’s office and jail. The second courthouse was made in 1890, and with its big sweeping staircases and clock tower, it was not only bigger, but much grander. However, money must have run out, because the hands of the clock are actually painted on. Both of these buildings are being restored.

The McFarland State Park is where Sheriff Peter Gabriel shared an office with his deputy, Josephus Phy. These two lawdogs had their issues with each other, and Joe lost against Pete later in an election. Whether this was the straw that broke the dromedaries’ back or anger over the fact that his name was Josephus, Phy came after Gabriel with a knife in one hand and a revolver in the other. The scene of  this gunfight was the Tunnel Saloon on Main Street. Eleven pistol rounds were fired at point blank range. Joe died, and Pete lived another ten years with one lung. The humorous part occurred when the two men were lying in the street bleeding. The town doctor attended Joe first, and that ticked Pete off so much, he refused medical attention. They had to fetch a doctor from Sacaton to take care of him!  This 1888 shooting incident was actually big news during the day, but is largely swept under the rug thanks to the fame of the OK Corral gun battle.

Every February, the Chamber of Commerce holds a Historic Homes Tour. It’s a fascinating tour where the owners of many 1880′s buildings in Florence open their doors to the public. A great way to see the inside of these Victorian homes. Some that aren’t open are still of interest. Pauline Cushman, a famous Civil War Spy, lived in a house not far off Main Street.

Famous Florence is a terrific town to visit to experience some of Arizona’s pre-statehood history. You can visit during any number of events they hold every year, or just head on up to see some sights. Eat some fudge, and say hi to the ghosts of Pete and Joe. Just don’t pick up any hitchhikers in orange jumpsuits.

Around 1878, the arrival of the Southern Pacific Railroad changed transportation for Arizona. Up until that point, public conveyance was equine-powered. If a town was getting a train depot, it increased its chance of success. The steam-powered locomotive was an unbelievable jump in technology.

This mode of travel made it possible for people to ride in comfort and not have to worry about the dangers and pitfalls of the rugged landscape breaking the wheels of their stagecoach. Nor did they have concern for cramped spaces and potentially long, dusty voyages. Railroads also revolutionized shipping, making livestock, agriculture, and mail service available to major cities across America.

Chinese laborers were brought in to build the great Southern Pacific Railroad’s tracks in 1878. They worked for $1.00 an hour and in less than a year had 182 miles of track built! It grew from there. The only break they got was during the hot summer months. Even then, some of them went to work in mines until the railroad picked up again.

Of course, with industrial expansion comes outlaw ingenuity. Arizona was rife with rapscallions taking pointers from the James’ brothers and holding up trains. One of the most famous ones in Arizona happened in 1900 near Fairbank. “Three-Fingered Jack” Dunlap and his gang held up the Southern Pacific and met with heavy resistance from the express car. Jeff Milton, hero of the day, managed to mortally oxygenate Jack with a shotgun (but left his remaining fingers intact). Like the owlhoots in Bisbee, they didn’t time the payroll shipment right.  The remainder of the gang got away with a whopping 17 pesos, and were eventually captured. Sigh…will they never learn?

last week I wrote about Willcox and its historic depot. A neighboring town, Cochise, was a water stop and housed a hotel and general store. So, while the train was refueling, one could get some snacks or a meal to tide them over until the next stop. Probably couldn’t get a Slurpee, but whatever the Old West equivalent was.

Other notable historic depots lie in Tucson, Tombstone, Williams, Holbrook and the Grand Canyon (to name a few). Most are still in use, as the Southern Pacific sold their lines to the Union Pacific in the 1900′s.

For you ghost town hunters, the Esmond Train station (originally named Papago) built in 1885 has visible ruins and lays not far  from Tucson.

Tucson’s recently restored  depot is home to the Southern Arizona Transportation Museum, and will be hosting National Train Day on May 12. There will be exhibits, food, model trains, and real steam trains to explore. At this time there are no Chihuahua or turtle races, but I’ll let you know if that changes.

If you just like trains, Chandler has the Arizona Railway Museum, where you can climb aboard some of these historic locomotives and passenger cars. If you want ones that move, head to the Grand Canyon Railway in Williams or the Verde Canyon Railroad in Sedona. In addition to these giving you the historic transportation, they offer incredibly scenic views and maybe a mock holdup.

What I hope you take away is an appreciation of the mode of transportation that was instrumental in settling the wild west. By the way, it’s acceptable to whistle Big Freight Train Carry Me Home when the locomotive pulls out of the station.

3:10 to Yuma...All Abooooard!

Maley, Arizona was founded in 1880. The original plan was a whistle-stop for the new Southern Pacific Railroad and it passed through a ranch owned by a fellow named James Mahley. It appears as though the town name was absent of the “h”.

Around 1889, a train came in with a bigwig general by the name of Orlando Wilcox.  According to legend, the townspeople cheered his name, and poor James Mahley lost his namesake. So Wilcox grew. It became a major shipping location for local cattleman and farmers. In 1915 , incorporation came and they added an “l” to the name (maybe to make up for stealing James’ “h”).

Many of the buildings in Willcox are on the National Register of Historic Places, As far as I know, all of them are being utilized as businesses today. The Southern Pacific Railroad Depot is now the city hall. The Women’s Club utilizes an 1880’s hotel named the Schwertner House. The Palace Saloon is still serving alcohol, but The Headquarters Saloon is a gift shop. You might find one of those machines that mash a penny into an oval with “Willcox” stamped into it here, but don’t order whiskey. Also of note is the Willcox Commercial, which claims to be the oldest operating store in Arizona. It would appear Geronimo shopped for sweets here. I wonder if he got a stamped penny.

One of the highlights on Railroad Avenue is the Rex Allen Cowboy Museum, which features memorabilia of the famous singing cowboy who was raised there. Every year The Chamber of Commerce hosts Rex Allen Days, in tribute to the actor. This October there will be a rodeo, concerts, a parade, and turtle races. Watch out, Superior…your Chihuahuas should be sweating.

Warren Earp, younger brother to Wyatt, was driving stagecoaches between Willcox and Fort Grant, and is rumored to have worked for the Sierra Bonita Ranch. One day in 1900 he got into a fight with Johnnie Boyett over the affections of a woman at the Headquarters Saloon. It resulted in a shootout that left Warren the second Earp to perish in Cochise County. He is buried in Willcox Pioneer Cemetery.

Many of you will go down with the family to pick apples at Apple Annie’s Orchard. Once you’ve had your fill of those crisp, juicy delights, I urge you to visit the historic downtown of Willcox. Pay your condolences to Warren, sing along with Rex Allen, wave to a passing train, and immerse yourself in a little Old West history.

The Oldest Store in Arizona

There’s gold in them thar hills. Naw, this isn’t about the Lost Dutchman Mine. This is about stolen outlaw fortunes hidden away so that no one will find it except the outlaws who stole it to begin with. What happens if the posse catches up to them and they refuse to reveal their unlawful gains only to be hanged from the nearest cottonwood? Well, my friends, that’s why we have “lost treasure”.

This does not mean that you should pack a truck and go hunting for loot because some octogenarian sitting in a bar tells you where to find stolen bandit booty. Many of these legends follow a string of inaccuracies; mostly due to the unreliability of human recollection. Plenty of lore leads you to an area, usually many square miles in diameter, with little to go by.

Where the point of the Sawtooth Mountain casts a shadow at the warmest part of the day, travel East past the giant Saguaro to the rock that looks like a mare’s ear…
Yeah, that’s gonna be hard to find. Better type in “Mare’s Ear” and hope the GPS can locate it.

Hashknife Charley stole 38 gold bars somewhere in Mexico. I’m sure that can be a heavy load. Apparently, so did Charley. Once he got over the border, he buried them. Later on he was captured for stealing horses and died in prison. To this day the gold bars have never been found. Old Hashknife took the secret to his grave.

Also in the 1880′s, five outlaws robbed a saloon in Mineral Park (now a ghost town), followed by a fruitful stagecoach robbery. Like Hashknife Charley, they weren’t keen on hauling the loot, so they also buried it. Shortly thereafter, they succumbed to lead perforation and the 400 lbs. of gold dust, nuggets, and passenger’s valuables was never recovered.

Tucson has its hidden loot, too. The El Tejano treasure legend speaks of stagecoach plunder hidden in a cave near Cat Mountain and protected by the ghost of a slain highwayman. If you find it, El Tejano will appear and tell you that you have to take it all, or nothing. Anybody who has found it hasn’t been able to take the vast treasure in one trip, so the specter employs amnesia so you forget the exact location. Most likely this is based on Bill Brazelton, who Sheriff Paul and posse aerated in 1878. With 10 bullet holes in him and seconds to live, the last thing on his mind was revealing where he left his fortune.

Although these are just a couple of examples, tales of lost or hidden treasure exist in every region of Arizona. If you are going to search for it, be very careful and take plenty of water. Let people at home know where you are. Most importantly, if you meet up with El Tejano…run screaming like a little girl.

Cat Mountain

In an earlier entry, I mentioned one of Arizona’s surviving 1870’s cattle ranches, the Empire Ranch. Located 10 miles north of Sonoita, this historic gem is a must for those wanting to immerse themselves in the 19^th century.

Founded in 1860 by a Tucson businessman, the original ranch house was only four rooms with an adjoining corral. By the late 1870’s it was purchased by Walter Vail and Herbert Hislop, who expanded the 160-acre operation and the ranch house grew to 22 rooms with outlying buildings. Ultimately, the enterprise absorbed almost 1 million acres and holdings in the mining arena as well.

It was still a working cattle ranch the 20^th century when the film industry targeted it as a location for over 30 western movies. Probably the most famous being Red River, starring John Wayne. Interestingly, the 1988 remake with James Arness was also filmed there. I’ll bet Texans are miffed about that, since the film is about a trail drive from Texas to Kansas. Maybe the next remake will be filmed in Texas.

Today, the Bureau of Land Management runs the area and the Empire Ranch Foundation is hard at work stabilizing and restoring the ranch house to its former glory. In doing this, they have found many interesting articles that tell the tale of this glorious southern Arizona cattle kingdom. They unearthed oyster shells that told of the Vail’s penchant for shellfish. In the 1880’s, these items were shipped in by rail from California, since Joe’s Crab Shack wasn’t founded yet.

In an effort to raise money for its continued restoration, the foundation hosts many events each year. The highly successful “Fall Roundup and Open House” offers entertainment and education for the whole family. They run summer day camps for kids, a western art show, and programs to teach folks about the grasslands nestled in the La Cienega region. Docents are trained in the history of the area as well as the buildings that make up the Ranch enterprise.

Empire Ranch and its Vaqueros

This coming weekend is their “Spring Trail Ride and Steak Dinner”. You can bring your own horse (BYOH) or rent one of theirs, and experienced guides will treat you to a look at the Ranch’s beautiful scenery. For those who don’t want to get on the “hurricane deck”, the ranch is providing wagon rides. Later in the day, there will be entertainment and dutch oven cherry cobbler…so I’ll be there.

If you decide to visit one weekend, or are interested in volunteering your time and skills, you won’t be sorry. The Empire Ranch is a remarkable treasure of our state’s history. For more information, please go to http://empireranchfoundation.org

We all know Old Tucson Studios to be a fun place to get in touch with our western film side. Sets and costumes that we’ve seen in dozens of movies and TV shows are sublimely displayed for us so we can revisit those famous flicks that helped shape not only the movie industry, but also America.
I fist visited it around 1979, on a trip out here with my father. Being from the other side of the country, I had never seen a Saguaro cactus, let alone a desert. Dad and I had watched many western films together. It could be said that our connection to westerns is what planted the seed of interest in the Old West for me.

When I returned again in 2000, the drive up Gates Pass brought back a flood of memories. Old Tucson Studios had changed somewhat due to the fire, but the memories were matching up like a good game of Concentration.
I go back frequently, to watch the gunfights, take in the sites, and hum along to the theme music. In the past year, the marketing staff has really upped their game. First of all, the town square/gazebo is gone, replaced by a row of sets that give you more the feel of walking down the streets of El Dorado or Rio Lobo. Of course the Starbucks is a little out of place (just kidding). They’ve done a superb job with the new “Heritage Square”, even added accents like real adobe walls and a livery with a couple of donkeys.
Not far from the OK Corral Set, there is an authentic reproduction of a Tohono O’dham village built with help from members of the Tohono nation. With cactus ribs and earthen walls, it is a real step towards embracing Arizona’s history.

Speaking of history, the studio staff has come up with living history demonstrations to teach folks about the Old West. This is especially great, because it adds another layer to Old Tucson, taking it past being a film location and into being a great representation of a bustling 19th century town. Currently, the lectures are: Schools on the Frontier, Travel by Stagecoach, and The Life of a Sheriff. I’m truly hoping the burros will do a living history lecture named Donkeys of the Livery, but we’ll have to see.

Old Tucson Studios has a challenge, and that’s getting the locals to keep returning. This coming weekend they are sponsoring Wild West Days, a salute to southwestern heritage, history and culture.There will be stunt shows, western entertainment, and vendors. With events like this and the “upgrades” they’ve added, I believe they’ve met that challenge head-on. I encourage you to visit Old Tucson Studios if you haven’t been in awhile. You’ll be pleasantly surprised. You’ll certainly be entertained, and you might just learn something.

Heritage Square

Home in the Tohono O'dham village

I visited Old Tucson Studios a few years ago and found recreations of  “Teacher’s Rules in 1872”. With most of my family being educators, I had to buy some of these sheets. Printed on a yellowed parchment, they depict an era where teachers had to follow a really strict daily routine…but they were allowed one day a week to court (or two if they attend church regularly).

I got to really thinking about education back when Arizona was still a territory. Movies tend to represent the working class on the wild frontier as a bunch of folks who couldn’t sign their names, let alone read what they were signing.  That’s obviously not true. All the documents I’ve read from cowboys, miners, and other laborers in the late 19^th century cause me believe that many were, indeed, literate.

Floating around the Web there is a copy of an 1800’s 8^th grade exam that will make your jaw drop.  Chances are many of the blue-collar workers back then didn’t go past 8^th grade, but judging from this test…they didn’t need to. This is one of the questions: What are the following, and give examples of each: Trigraph, sub vocals, diphthong, cognate letters, linguals?  Wait…I know this one. No, I don’t.
My wife is very fortunate to own a copy of the 1859 book Teachers’ Library, in which they teach such things. Although in 1859 I might have insisted on an open book test.

Teachers, like today, had a very difficult job. In a one-room schoolhouse, you were expected to educate various grade levels. Today that would be called a “1-8 Combo Class”. Man, think of the Parent /Teacher Conferences! They probably served alcohol just to get through it. Perhaps Ms. Beadle in Little House on the Prairie wasn’t the teetotaler you thought she was.

I take for granted the many schoolhouses I’ve visited in my western travels. There seems to be a representation of a one-room school in every Old West town.  There’s one at Old Tucson, Pioneer History Village, and Strawberry boasts that it has the oldest standing schoolhouse in the state.

The schoolhouse in Strawberry might be one of the greatest nuggets in Arizona. Built in 1884, it lasted until 1916, when it closed its doors. Around 1963, the dilapidated log frame was bought by a local rancher, who in turn gave it to the Payson-Pine Chamber of Commerce. It was renovated, and today the school is not only a museum, but also a central event location dedicated to educating folks about the 1800’s.

Strawberry Schoolhouse

The schoolhouses in Pioneer Living History Museum and Old Tucson have been restored as well, and really give you the feel for the 1880’s. The ghost town of Lochiel (near Patagonia) has a one-room schoolhouse that closed its doors in 1972. The Patagonia Museum is making a huge effort to restore it to its heyday finery.

So, the next time you visit your child’s teacher, consider the job they have. Consider the job their predecessors had, as well. Thank them. Appreciate them. And if your child is more Nellie Olson than Laura Ingalls, give them a gift card to Total Wine.