Hey, y’all!

If you’re building a new home or remodeling your existing place, the more you do to make your house fire-resistant, the better your chances of keeping an outdoor fire from coming indoors. Here are some ideas:

Choose fire-resistant building materials like stucco if you're building or remodeling a home.

• If you’re replacing your siding, consider stucco—a local favorite anyway—or fiber cement or another cement-based product. A non-combustible cladding material is designed to resist flames long enough for firefighters to arrive.
• You might be thinking about trading your leaky, old single-pane windows in for double- or triple-pane models to take advantage of the federal tax credit for energy-efficient home improvements that lasts until December 2010. That’s a great idea, and not just because it will save you money on your air conditioning and heating bills. An extremely hot fire can break your windows. The more layers of glass they’re made of, the less likely all panes will break.
• Choose roof shingles and tiles that are Class-A fire-rated, which makes them suitable for homes even in fire-prone areas. Treated shingles, stone-coated steel and concrete tiles are good choices. A tip: When you replace shingles with tile, you need to reinforce your roof so it can hold up the extra weight.
• Some steel entry doors are tested for fire resistance and are labeled so you’ll know they can hold off flames for times ranging from 20 minutes to 90 minutes.
• Paint additives designed to reduce flame spread come with fire ratings, and some manufacturers claim they double their effectiveness if you double the coating. These additives don’t change the paint’s color.
• For landscaping, choose low-growing, succulent plants that hold moisture. And don’t plant them too close to the house or too close to each other. In the event they do catch on fire, distance will prevent the flames from spreading.

I’ll be talking about this important topic on News-Talk 92.3 KNST from 8-11 a.m. this Saturday on the Rosie on the House show. Tune it in!

’Til next time, pass yourself a good dose of joie de vivre!

Next week: Indoor fire safety

Hey, y’all!

You can plan ahead to make sure firefighters have access to every part of your property. Here are two things you can do now to prevent problems if they have to show up later:

Don't let anything get in the way of the firefighters who come to save your home and family.

1. Expand your driveway so it’s 12 feet wide so firefighters can get their equipment through in case of a fire.
2. Locate trees, fences and retaining walls in places that will not get in the way of firefighters who try to get to the back of your house.

I’ll have more tips for you on this Saturday’s Rosie on the House show. It airs from 8 – 11 a.m. on News-Talk 92.3 KNST.

’Til next time, pass yourself a good dose of joie de vivre!

Next blog: Prevent flames from spreading

Hey, y’all!

Unless you cover your yard with concrete, you can’t make it perfectly fireproof. But there’s plenty you can do make it more resistant to flames and slower to spread them, whether the fire started in your yard, in the one next door or even in a forest that is miles away.

Succulent plants that store moisture are slower to catch on fire and spread flames than others.

Here are some tips:

• Choose succulent plants and trees—those that store a lot of moisture. Two good choices are aspen and locust. Avoid conifers, like pines, firs, spruces, junipers, and Arizona cypress, as they’re more flammable, even when they’re well-watered.
• The same goes for grasses, bushes and even flowers. Plant greenery that grows low to the ground and holds water.
• Don’t plant anything too close to the house or too close to other plants. If a bush or tree does catch on fire, the flames will have a harder time spreading if nothing is nearby.
• Keep tall shrubs away from the house. Flames can climb them—all the way up to the eaves of the house.
• Create a perimeter around your house of at least 30 feet. Mow the grass sort and water it often.
• Thin out dense groups of trees or bushes to slow the spread of fire. Keep greenery pruned.
• Clean your yard and planting beds regularly to remove debris and fallen leaves that can act as kindling in case of a yard fire.
• Snip branches away from your home’s roof and soffits.

Catch me on the radio on Saturday! I’ll be talking about outdoor fire safety on the Rosie on the House show. It airs every Saturday from 8 – 11 a.m. on News-Talk 92.3 KNST.

’Til next time, pass yourself a good dose of joie de vivre!

Next blog: Make it easy for firefighters

Hey, y’all!

You can learn more about the kind of soil that your house is built on–along with lots of other information about geology in Arizona–by visiting the Web sites of these organizations:

National Resources Conservation Service

Arizona Geological Survey

Arizona Ram Jack

Also, I’ll be talking about soils and foundations on the Rosie on the House show this Saturday from 8 – 11 a.m. on NewsTalk 790 KNST. Give a listen!

‘Til next time, pass yourself a good dose of joie de vivre!

Next week: Heaving and settling

Hey, y’all!

Chances are, the soil under your home is either expansive or collapsible–and either way, that can mean trouble for your foundation if it gets wet.

Clay-based soil can swell and shrink when it gets wet, and that can threaten your home's foundation.

Most people think Arizona soils are sandy, dry and stable, but that’s not true everywhere. Soil is moisture sensitive, and if your home is built on clay, it can “heave” when the ground gets wet and the soil expands. If it’s built on sandy silt, your house can “settle” when the loose, dry soil gets wet and compacts or collapses.

Luckily, not every house is at risk, and even those that are won’t necessarily have any problems as long as their owners keep water away from the foundation.

I’ll be talking more about this on the Rosie on the House show this Saturday morning from 8 – 11 on NewsTalk 790 KNST. Tune in to learn what kind of soil and soil problems are most common in Tucson–and what you can do to prevent water-related soil problems under your home.

‘Til next time, pass yourself a good dose of joie de vivre!

Next blog: Where to get more info about soil

Hey, y’all!

As is true with so many home-improvement products, you really get what you pay for when you buy tools.

Invest in sturdy, name-brand tools if you want them to last through your toughest jobs.

It’s worth it to invest in good-quality tools. Junk tools bend and break when you put pressure on them, and they wear out as soon as you get comfortable with them.

You don’t need industrial-strength tools, but avoid the bargain-bin hammers. A good tool is one that you’ll want to keep for a long, long time.

Want to talk tools? Give me a call while I’m doing the Rosie on the House show this Saturday on News/Talk 790, KNST, from 8 – 11 a.m. The number is 888-ROSIE-4-U. Best time to call: 8:59 a.m.

’Til next time, pass yourself a good dose of joie de vivre!

Next blog: Tuesday

Topic: Soil problems

Hey, y’all!

Some tools are so versatile and practical that you’ll need them for almost every job. Here are a few that you should always keep in your tool belt:

That's me on the left, with my son and Rosie on the House co-host, Romey (in red). Both of us keep our tool belts stocked with basics.

• a 24-ounce, all-purpose hammer with a wood handle. There’s hardly a job you can tackle that won’t require you to tap or slide or nail something.  Metal hammers with rubber grips work great for tearing things apart, but the wood-handled framing hammer is the one I carry everywhere.
• a rigid, one-inch putty knife. The one I carry is probably 30 years old. I’m constantly trying to pry something or apply something, so I keep a putty knife on hand for every project.
• two or three nail sets, which can be used for setting nails and poking holes.
• an inch-wide, 30-foot-long tape measure.  Get one that’s packed in a small case. And choose one that’s stiff so it won’t bend back on itself when you measure something that’s 10 or 12 feet or longer.
• A few other handy, versatile tools: an X-ACTO knife, a roll of string, a screwdriver, a carpenter’s pencil and a Speed Square.

Depending on the kind of project you’re working on, you’ll need to add job-specific tools to your belt, like drills and other power tools.

What are your can’t-live-without favorite tools? Give me a call at 888-ROSIE-4-U on Saturday morning between 8-11 while I’m on News/Talk 790 doing the Rosie on the House show. Let’s talk tools!

’Til next time, pass yourself a good dose of joie de vivre!

Next blog: Friday

Topic: Don’t skimp when buying tools

Hey, y’all!

You might not know that different tool belts are designed to fit the tools of specific trades, so carpenters, electricians, plumbers and drywallers, for instance, each wear a different style.

Before you buy a tool belt, try it on at the store and load it up with tools to see how it feels.

If you do general handyman work around your house, go with a carpenter’s tool belt, which typically will have two large pouches, a hammer holster and up to 15 smaller pouches of varying sizes to hold everything from nails to utility knives to hammers to measuring tapes.

You can get a tool belt for as little as $15 or as much as $300, depending on how many pockets it has and what it’s made of. Choose one that’s comfortable (try it on at the store and load it up with tools). And think twice about how hot it gets around here before you buy a leather belt. Nylon or fabric will wear cooler.

A tip: If you carry a ton of power tools around with you, invest in a pair of comfortable, padded suspenders. They’ll help support your tool belt and keep the weight from annoying you while you work.

I’ll be talking about tools on the Rosie on the House show this Saturday fro 8-11 a.m. on News/Talk 790, KNST. Give a listen!

’Til next time, pass yourself a good dose of joie de vivre!

Next blog: Thursday

Topic: The most useful tools

Hey, y’all!

If you’re a patient person who doesn’t mind measuring, marking, planning and precision, you’ll probably have a good time installing your own wainscoting.

Wainscoting looks nice on the bottom of a wall, but if it's too much trouble to install, consider wallpapering or faux painting under the chair rail instead.

But if  all sounds like too much trouble, skip the wainscoting and apply a faux finish or some wallpaper between a baseboard and chair rail. Paint the trim in a solid, contrasting color. You’ll still get a stunning look—with less expense and far less work.

Hey, I’ve got a million tips for you! Tune in to the Rosie on the House show on Saturday mornings for more. You can catch me on NewsTalk 790, KNST, from 8-11 a.m.

’Til next time, pass yourself a good dose of joie de vivre!

Next blog: Wednesday

Topic: My favorite tools

Hey, y’all!

You can cover up damaged walls and add a touch of historical charm to a room by adding wainscoting.

Waincoting is a wall paneling that usually spans the bottom third or half of a wall from the baseboard to the chair rail, and it’s a great cover-up for damaged drywall.

It’s been around for 100 years or so, and lately, it seems to be making a comeback.

It adds a touch of historical charm to a room—even if it’s not covering a bad wall. And you can do it yourself if you’re the patient type.

A couple of tips:

1. Don’t create your own wainscoting unless you’re really into carpentry. You can buy wainscoting kits that are much quicker and easier to install than paneling that you build board by board.
2. Stick with flat-panel or beadboard wainscoting and stay away from raised-panel wainscoting. The panels in raised-panel versions make the thickness of the material uneven, and that’s a little harder to work with.

Want to do it? Dial in to the Rosie on the House show on Saturday from 8 – 11 a.m. on NewsTalk 790, KNST. I’ll be talking about wainscoting and paneling and all sorts of home-improvement projects. (Have a question for me? Call me while I’m on the air at 888-ROSIE-4-U. I’ll be waitin’ for your call!)

’Til next time, pass yourself a good dose of joie de vivre!

Next blog: Thursday

Topic: Electrical outlets and paneling