George Armstrong Custer

Most Americans know at least a little about Custer’s Last Stand, also known as the Battle of the Little Bighorn. The incident has an epic quality worthy of Homer’s Illiad or Virgil’s Aeneid.

The battle took place on June 25^th & 26^th, 1876 between the combined forces of the Lakoda, Northern Cheyenne, and Arapaho tribes led by Crazy Horse and Chief Gall on one side against Lieutenant Colonel George Armstrong Custer and the U.S. 7^th Cavalry on the other.

To say that this battle on the plains of Montana Territory was a huge success for the Indians would be an understatement. Not only was Custer killed, along with two of his brothers, a nephew, and a brother-in-law; five of the 7^th Cavalry’s 12 companies were annihilated. Including scouts, the U.S. Army lost 268 dead and 55 injured.

The 700-strong 7^th Cavalry was simply overwhelmed by more than 2,000 enraged, well-armed, and well-led Indian warriors inspired by the great Lakota medicine man and tribal leader, Sitting Bull.

While the Plains Indians clearly won the battle, they soon lost the war. Sitting Bull surrendered to the U.S. Army in 1881.

The Battle of the Little Bighorn is famous in part because it had enormous consequences; for the Indians, the Army, and the horde of white settlers who sought cheap land on the Great Plains and and miners who sought mineral wealth in Black Hills.

The Bascom Affair
By contrast, almost no Arizonans, let alone other Americans, know about another battle that also had enormous consequences. It’s called the Bascom Affair and took place in Southern Arizona at Apache Pass in 1861 between the Chiricahua Apaches and the U.S. Army. It’s called the Bascom Affair because a poorly prepared West Point graduate, 24-year-old Lieutenant George Bascom, earned the wrath of Cochise, the great Chiricahua leader. The incident ignited the Apache Wars that resulted in the deaths of several thousand people: Anglos, Mexicans, and Apaches.

Lt. George Bascom

While it started as a relatively minor skirmish compared to Custer’s defeat, the Apache Wars saw Mexicans and Americans terrorized for the next quarter century. In the end, it took 5,000 U.S. soldiers and a couple hundred Apache scouts to finally run Geronimo, and his fast-dwindling band of hostiles, to ground in 1886 at Skeleton Canyon; not far from the town of Douglas in Arizona Territory. When the Apache Wars ended, the once proud Chiricahua Apaches were all but annihilated.

The few hundred humiliated and desperately impoverished Chiricahuas who survived the war, including the Army scouts that had made Geronimo’s capture possible, were shipped to Florida as prisoners of war. They were never allowed to return to their beautiful highland home we call the Chiricahua Mountains, a little more than an hour drive east of Tucson.

The Kidnapping
The Bascom Affair began on January 27, 1861, when Coyotero Apaches raided the ranch of John Ward at Sonoita Creek, stole some livestock, and kidnapped Ward’s 12-year-old stepson Felix. Ward complained about the raid to the commandant of Fort Buchanan, Lieutenant Colonel Morrison. Morrison ordered Lieutenant Bascom and 54 infantry soldiers to attempt to recover the boy and livestock by whatever means necessary. Ward and Bascom mistakenly believed that the raid was carried out by a band of Chiricahua Apaches led by Cochise, whose mountain homeland included, not only the Chiricahuas, but also the Dragoon and Dos Cabezas Mountains in Southeastern Arizona.

Apache Pass
Apache Pass separates the Dos Cabazas Mountains from the Chiricahuas. Here Apache Springs was the only reliable source of water for many miles in any direction. Ft. Bowie was built here to support the Army’s many, mostly ineffective, campaigns against the Chiricahua Apaches. Today, I-10 runs very near Apache Pass and the ruins of Fort Bowie 25 miles east of Willcox.

Ruins of Ft. Bowie in Apache Pass.

Back then, Anglo and Mexican stagecoach drivers and passengers, as well as wagon train teamsters and all their horses, mules, and oxen desperately needed that water on their arduous east-west journey. The problem in 1861 was that the Chiricahua Apaches had held sole possession of the Pass for several hundred years and they were not inclined to share it with these foreign invaders.

When Bascom arrived at Apache Pass with his soldiers in February 1861, they set up camp and sent word to Cochise that they had come in peace and just wanted to talk.

A day later, Cochise arrived unarmed with several family members. Bascom invited Cochise into his tent for a parley.

The following quotes are from a fine new book; The Wrath Of Cochise, by Terry Mort.

“This was the first time Bascom had been in such close contact with an Apache … It would not be surprising if Bascom felt a little uneasy at first. He was staring into the eyes of someone entirely different from anyone in his experience, a nearly perfect representative or embodiment of “otherness”.

“All accounts of Cochise portray him as an imposing figure. Indeed, he could be, and often was, a frightening presence, even to his own people. Said Lieutenant Joseph Sladen, “He carried himself at all times with great dignity and was always treated by those about him with the utmost respect and, at times, fear.” At this stage in his life, he was in his late forties, still vigorous, and no doubt menacing, especially when alarmed or annoyed. He had a ferocious temper … “

Taza, oldest son of Cochise. He was transported to Washington D.C. so see for himself the futility of contesting White expansion. While there, he died of pneumonia. People said he looked like his famous father. There are no known photographs of Cochise.

“Everything about Cochise – his dress, his long, black hair streaked with silver; his prideful demeanor – all of this and more must have been startling and weirdly fascinating to Bascom. There in front of him was the perfect barbarian, [like a wild Germanic chieftain] who might have stepped out of Caesar’s Commentaries …”

“… facing [Bascom] was this older Apache, this visitor from another time and place. He looked different, he dressed differently, he spoke an impenetrable language, and was said to be a murderer and thief. Unquestionably, Cochise had personally shed human blood with an edged weapon, which meant he had looked into the eyes of his victims as he was killing them. Bascom had never done anything like that; he had yet to injure, much less kill, anyone, even at a distance with a rifle shot.”

Cochise would not have been impressed with Bascom. “[He] had no understanding of the complexities of white culture. His only contacts had been with a few miners, transient emigrants, corrupt traders, Butterfield (stagecoach) employees, and soldiers. Few of these inspired much admiration or respect. He had no idea of the size of the gathering storm.”

In the tent, Bascom accused Cochise of stealing Ward’s livestock and stepson. Cochise was insulted. He told Bascom that neither he nor his warriors had anything to do with that incident. He also told Bascom that he would try to find out who was involved and return the boy and livestock.

At this point Bascom, in effect, called Cochise a liar and a thief … to his face! BIG MISTAKE! Amazingly, Cochise managed to escape the confines of Bascom’s tent, but his wife, children, and nephews were taken hostage in an attempt to force Cochise to cave to Bascom’s demands.

What followed over the next few days were several failed attempts by Cochise to exchange hostages. He tortured to death 4 Mexicans just to assuage his anger, but kept 3 Americans hostages alive to trade for his family.

But Bascom wouldn’t trade. He kept replying to Cochise’s entreaties by saying he could have his family back when the boy and livestock were returned. The Chiricahuas became more and more frustrated. To get his family back, Cochise and his warriors mounted a wild frontal assault on Bascom’s well-established defensive position. When that failed, Cochise became even more enraged and one barbaric cruelty followed another … by both sides. Cochise’s war of revenge was on.

Whites Call For Extermination
The White settlers and miners clamored for the Army to protect them. The vast majority advocated extermination. This editorial in the Tucson Star reflects the general sentiment toward the Apaches that grew louder and more hysterical as the seemingly endless war continued.

“The very ground is moist with the blood of our murdered people. The very air rings with the shrieks of the victims of Apache atrocities. The glare of the frontiersman’s burning cabin signifies the fact that the Apache is on the warpath … not because he is [in] want of food; not because the whites have molested him in any manner, but purely in the spirit of fiendish rapine and murder; not to seek food or shelter, but to seek victims to satiate his devilish disposition to kill and destroy. The Apache is by nature bloodthirsty, and having no sense of responsibility, gratifies his cruel, heartless thirst for blood by murder an rapine.” Reprinted in the New York Times on November 29, 1885, the headline read: ‘Whites Advised to Attack and Slaughter Them”.

The U.S. Army, unlike the Mexican Army, had some ethical qualms about exterminating a people. But its officers were caught between the demands of the civilian population and their own rules of engagement. They had no problem killing Apache combatants, but were not willing to deliberately kill Apache women and children. The following quote is by Lt. Colonel Pitcairn Morrison, commanding officer at Ft. Buchanan and Bascom’s direct report.

“I cannot see any other course but to feed them or exterminate them.”

If you enjoy Arizona history, I wholeheartedly recommend Terry Mort’s The Wrath of Cochise (copyright 2013). Well researched and well written, Mort reveals a compelling true story of flawed characters, poor judgment (in hindsight), and sweeping historical forces that initially brought Cochise and Bascom together; and then set the stage for a generation of all-out war that raged over the vast expanse that is the American Southwest and Northern Mexico. Moreover, Mort shines a penetrating spotlight on their respective cultures, the personal experiences that led to the decisions they made, and the tragic consequences of their choices. Like so much of Southern Arizona history, the facts are far more interesting than the myths.

For more features about Southern Arizona’s extraordinary past, visit SouthernArizonaGuide > Local History.

Here are our recommendations for the best things to see and do around Willcox, Arizona. Most have something to do with the area’s history or its vineyards.

Willcox is about an hour and a half east of Tucson on I-10. The town has seen better days, but fortunately the citizens have preserved many of the historic buildings. Some are pre-1920. Others were build pre-1900. So one of the best things to do around Willcox is to take the short, self-guided walking tour of historic downtown. Click HERE to identify each historic site below.

Rex Allen Museum

The main attraction in historic downtown Willcox along Railroad Avenue is the Rex Allen Museum. If you are younger than 65 as of 2012, it is unlikely you will know who Rex Allen was.

Through the 1950′s & ’60′s, Mr. Allen was a singer-songwriter, Western movie star, and narrator for many Disney nature films.

At one time, he was almost as famous as Roy Rogers and Gene Autry. In all, he starred and sang in 19 Westerns, and earned a star on Hollywood Blvd.

So popular was Mr. Allen that he became a comic book character for Dell Comics. With his trademark white Stetson, he was always the good guy. In his movies, he had a sidekick for comic relief: first Buddy Ebsen (later star of Beverly Hillbillies), then Slim Pickens.

Rex Allen was known as the Arizona Cowboy. His museum exhibits a lot of memorabilia, shows some of his old Westerns, and plays his music. His statue (and his ashes) are across the street in Railroad Park.

Marty Robbins Museum

Today (2012), far more people are familiar with the Western ballads of Marty Robbins than the songs of Rex Allen. Mr. Robbins has a small museum next to Rex Allen’s. A singer-songwriter, Mr. Robbins wrote and sang such hits as “A White Sportcoat”,  “My Woman, My Wife”, “El Paso”, and “Big Iron”.

Both Frankie Lane and Elvis Presley recorded Mr. Robbins’ “You Gave Me A Mountain”.

The Academy of Country Music honored Marty Robbins by naming him Artist of the Decade (1960′s). In 1982, he was elected to the Country Music Hall of Fame. Like Mr. Allen, he has a star on Hollywood Blvd. and Arizona claims him for its own.

Willcox Wine Tasting

Next to the Allen & Robbins Museums on Railroad Avenue is the Keeling Schaefer Vineyards’ Wine Tasting Room in the restored 1917 Willcox Bank & Trust building. This is a fine venue that includes an worthwhile art gallery.

Willcox Dining

In historic downtown Willcox: Big Tex BBQ. This is just around the corner from Railroad Park. The restaurant is an old railroad car. Excellent BBQ ribs.

Two miles west of Willcox: Coronado Vineyards. This is one of our favorites. Here you can taste their various wines and also enjoy dinner overlooking the vineyard.

Given its location, Willcox for us has been a gateway to 3 excellent adventures this past year. For more about things to do within an hour of Willcox, please click HERE to go to Southern Arizona Guide.

Ferruginous Hawk. Photo by Raven Bifrost

Southern Arizona has some of the best bird-watching areas in the world. People come here from all over the world to see many rare species found in few other places.

The following are our suggestions for where to find the best birding spots. Most of these areas have confirmed sightings of more than 300 species of birds. Generally, they are located along streams & rivers or in forested mountain canyons.

Just to get you started, you might want to watch the short video we created featuring John Ashley’s fine bird photographs.

Note: Birding hotspots are generally located in wild places. Some will have nearby lodging, but few if any will have nearby restaurants or grocery stores. So plan accordingly. TAKE YOUR OWN FOOD & DRINKS!

Cochise County

Great Horned Owl. Photo by John Ashley

Chiracahua National Monument is located southeast of Willcox on the west side of the Chiracahua Mountains, just one portion of the greater Coronado National Forest. When you go, we suggest you stop at the visitors center for a map and other information about trails, camping, & current conditions. The rangers there can point you to the best locations for bird-watching given the season. Camping in Bonita Canyon Campground is a good experience, but there is no other lodging here. Nor are there any restaurants, grocery stores or gas stations. The closest are in Willcox.

Portal is a tiny community on the eastern slope of the Chiracahuas and is a very popular birding area. In fact, there are places of lodging that cater specifically to the needs and interests of birders. Click here to go to our feature on Portal and the Forest Service Road 42 over the mountain to Chiricahua National Monument, about a two hour drive if you don’t stop to watch for birds & critters.

Southwest Research Station in Cave Creek Above Portal, AZ.

Lodging
Cave Creek Ranch is one of those places that caters to birders. So far, we have only stayed at the Portal Lodge, which was OK, (small, sparse rooms but clean) and convenient for our road trip in April 2012. Portal Lodge has a small store and restaurant, the only ones in this area for miles. But, there is no gas station nearby, so plan accordingly. And no, the pumps at Rodeo down the hill across the New Mexico border are not always operational either.

The most important item you can purchase at the Portal Store is a Xerox copy of a local area map for $0.25. Very handy.

**********************

Five miles further up Cave Creek is the Southwestern Research Station, a working research center that offers accommodations and classes certain times of the year.

We have not stayed here overnight yet, but we’ve been by it and it looks like a great place to make our headquarters for a couple of days.

Located at 5400 feet elevation in the heart of the Chiricahua Mountains, the immediate area is famous for its nesting Elegant Trogons, many hummingbird species, and other spectacular birds that migrant from Central and South America.

The Center offers cabin accommodations, cafeteria dining, a reservoir for swimming, a hummingbird area, and gift shop. Here you will find many hiking trails within walking distance or a short drive. Individuals may make reservations from March 1st to June 15th and from September 1st to October 31st.

All rates include three full meals (vegetarian option) in their cafeteria where you have the opportunity to chat with other visitors and share birding experiences. On those days you wish to travel to more distant areas to bird watch, they will provide you with a sack lunch.

For more information: Southwestern Research Station.

*************************

Tropical Kingbird

During its short but lively heyday, Paradise had saloons, a barbershop, mercantile stores, hotels, a jail, and a red-light district. Almost everyone left when the mines failed, pulling down their homes and businesses and taking the lumber with them. The Walker house, built by George and Lula Walker at the turn of the century, is one of the few original structures still standing. The Paradise Cemetery, one mile from the house, is a walk through history.

The George Walker House is a 100-year-old two-bedroom abode in Paradise. We have not stayed here but we have a good friend who has many times and she raves about this place.

The owners live nearby and we hear they are exceedingly knowledgeable about the history and wildlife of this area. This former boom town now boosts a year-round population of twelve, who enjoy the serenity provided by the surrounding national forest.

Click HERE for more information about Camping and RV Parks near Portal.

***********************

Ramsey Canyon Preserve is located a little south of Sierra Vista. This area is owned by the Nature Conservancy and is one of the most beautiful wild places anywhere.

Among many others bird types here, including the Elegant Trogon, you can find 15 species of hummingbirds.

Not only will you find a wide range of birds, but also many critters, such as black bear and coatimundi. Liz Sackness runs the bookstore at the visitors center and has taken some great photographs of this unique area. You can see our slideshow of her pictures by clicking HERE.

Calliope Hummingbird. Photo by Liz Sockness

Lodging
Just before the visitors center is Ramsey Canyon Inn B&B. It’s by far the most convenient for hiking in the Canyon. I’ve seen it from the outside and it looks ideal.

However, it gets mixed reviews and I don’t know why. We have not stayed there, but hope to do so sometime over the next 6 month. Will let you know. In the meantime, do some homework before making a reservation.

Ramsey Canyon Preserve is about 90 miles southeast of Tucson, near the city of Sierra Vista. Take I-10 east to Highway 90 exit. Go south to Sierra Vista. Take Highway 92 south from Sierra Vista for six miles and turn right on Ramsey Canyon Road. The preserve is at the end of Ramsey Canyon Road, four miles west of the highway. (520) 378-2785

For more Baja Arizona Birding Hotspots, click HERE to go to Southern Arizona Guide.

A cool day on the Oregon Coast.

Ms. Karen & I are traveling along the Oregon Coast. Here it’s cool & a little foggy at times. We visited my Mom’s ashes on a high bluff overlooking Cape Perpetua, then headed north to Newport.

*****************

Chiricahua Mountains. You can see Paul’s lookout tower in the background.

On another note, Paul Bovee sent me some photos from his outpost in the Chircahua Mountains. Paul is an avid hiker. He’s a retired teacher whose art is show in Bisbee galleries. Some months ago, I asked Paul if he would share his mountain experiences with my viewers. Here’s his first guest column.

Most of these photos are self-explanatory, and most were taken in the high country.  The hikers are on Morse Canyon Trail, which begins at the end of Turkey Creek Canyon.  From the trail head to Monte Vista Lookout (photo of lookout included), it’s four miles.  It’s a tough hike (all up) but the trail is good.  One of the high country photos pictures Chiricahua Peak as well as the area of the Crest Trail, another popular hiking area.

 

 

Hikers along a trail in the Chiricahua Mountains.

 

The Horseshoe 2 Fire last year damaged the north part of the range, including the Monument, Wonderland of Rocks National Park, and areas in the southern end of the range pretty extensively.  The high country was burned in areas, but there’s still a lot of green left.  There are also lots of designated camping and picnic areas open. 

 

 

 

 

 

Monsoon rains over the Chiricahua Mountains.

 

Please caution people without much outdoor experience that this is wild country (bears, rattlesnakes, etc.) that summer storms come up suddenly and drops in temperature of 30 degrees in an hour are common.  In addition to soaking you, the drop in temperature can leave you in danger of hypothermia.  Plenty of water is always a must.  Also, sad to report, UDA traffic and drug smuggling are a fact of this area as they are anywhere in southern Arizona.