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Three Days Touring SE AZ: Fantastic Country!

Monday, April 16th, 2012
Map of Southeastern Arizona Mid-April Tour

Tucson To Slaughter Ranch; Douglas to Portal; Portal Over Mountains to Chiricahua National Monument; Willcox to Safford; Safford To Duncan; Clifton to Morenci; Back to Safford via Black Hills Counry Byway.

 

 

 

As I posted several days ago, Ms. Karen & I were headed for a three-day weekend in Southeastern Arizona. Now we’re back and have a couple hundred photos, some of which I will share here. Others you can view on our Southern Arizona Guide website in a few days. Here’s is the route we traveled. All told, a little less than 700 miles.

This is a wonderful place for children and adults. Tons of hiking, picnicking, camping, fishing, bird and critter watching. And lots of Native American and Pioneer history.

 

 

 

 

A Lakeside Picnic Area At The Slaughter Ranch Museum

 

Slaughter Ranch Museum
The Slaughter Ranch right on the International Border is spectacular. A fine museum dedicated to pioneer rancher and Cochise County Sheriff John Slaughter. A beautiful place to have a picnic along side the lake.  We conducted an on-camera interview with Bob The Caretaker. You can view it in a few weeks on our website. I’m going to add this to our Best Picnic Areas section.

 

 

 

Ornate Lobby of Historic Gadsden Hotel. Douglas, AZ

 

 

Gadsden Hotel, Douglas
This was once a grand hotel, now shabby after decades of hard times. Douglas is a portrait of an impoverished American city.

 

 

 

 

Very sparse human population out here between towns. We saw a lot of poverty, a lot of churches, a lot of prisons. We also saw a lot of wildlife and beautiful scenery … and met some terrific people.

Portal, AZ. The Portal Store, Cafe', & Lodge is located on the eastern slope of the Chiricahua Mountains.

Portal, AZ
The first night we stayed at the Portal Lodge. Simple, clean, inexpensive. They have a store, cafe’, and lodge. I think it’s the only place within 10 miles to get supplies and an OK meal.

Taking the back road from Portal over the top of the Chiricahua Mountains to the Monument, we also saw the devastation caused by last June’s (2011) Horseshoe 2 Wildfire which burned almost a quarter million acres of remote forest.

Make sure you have plenty of gas. Gasoline is very scare around here.

 

 

Road From Portal Over The Top Of The Chiricahua Mountains

Road from Portal, AZ heading west over the mountains to Chiricahua National Monument on the other side.

Saturday morning we left Portal Lodge and headed up the east side of the Chiricahuas. Our destination was the Chiricahua National Monument on the other side. The pavement eventually gave way to a well-maintained dirt road that took us over the mountain top.

This was one of the most spectacular scenic drives we have ever experienced.

 

 

 

Tomorrow or the next day I will post more photos of our tour of Cochise, Graham, and Greenlee Counties almost to the Arizona-New Mexico border.

Hot Air Balloons & Arivaca Wildflowers

Wednesday, April 4th, 2012
Picture of a hot air balloon rising from the foothills of the Tucson Mountains

Balloon Rising: Foothills of the Tucson Mountains

 

 

 

Hot Air Balloons

Neighbor Roy lives just up the street from us. Day before yesterday, he and Ms. Karen were on their early morning walk with the (4) dogs when all of a sudden this hot air balloon rises from the ground right in front of them.

 

 

Arivaca Wildflowers
On another note, I have it on good authority that wildflowers are in bloom in and around Arivaca. Resident Paul Perino tells me that many varieties can be spotted all along the roadsides and hiking trails, as well as within the Buenos Aires National Wildlife Refuge (BANWR).

Among the performers, you will find: Bajada Lupine; Stork’s Bill Filaree; Wooley Daisy; and of course, Mexican Poppy.

If there is ever a “best” time to wonder through the BANWR, this is it. Take the kids. Bring a camera. Also, I believe this

Picture of Wildflower: Arizona Blue Eyes

Arizona Blue Eyes

coming Saturday is First Saturday in Arivaca – a rural version of a street fair. Farmers’ Market. Games for kids.  Good fun for all.

Directions
If you go, take the Arivaca Road exit off I-19 and drive west about 23 miles to the Village of Arivaca. Just before you reach the Village, you can get fresh roasted coffee (several blends) at The Gadsden Coffee Company (on the right). Just before you enter the Village, you will see a big sign on the left announcing your arrival at La Cienega portion of the Wildlife Refuge.

Once you are in the Village proper, do visit: (1) the Artist’s Co-op; Cactus Rose Gallery; and the historic La Gitana Cantina (according to Esquire Magazine, one of the top 100 bars in America)

Arivaca Wildflowers: Bajada Lupine

Bajada Lupine

While you’re there, do acquire a copy of the book: Wildfowers: A Field Guide to Flowering Plants of Southern Arizona. Highly recommended. It was written by Maggie Milinovich who also publishes the local newspaper Connection and is proprietor of La Gitana (gypsy) Cantina.

Where To Dine
When you get hungry, I recommend Sweet Peas Cafe. Any of the town folk can give you directions. Good food. Good value. Try the quiche. If you go, let me know if Jenni has her liquor license yet. jg

Buenos Aires National Wildlife Refuge Near Arivaca!

Friday, March 16th, 2012

A Great Blue Heron Searches For A Morsel Along The Boardwalk In The Arivaca Cienega.

I recently had the good fortune to get an escorted tour of Arivaca and vicinity by Paul Perino, a local resident.

One of the places we visited was the Buenos Aires National Wildlife Refuge. The Arivaca Cienega and Creek are a part of the Refuge.

The land for the Refuge, 118,000 acre, was purchased with our tax dollars by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service.

We Tucsonans usually think of Madera Canyon or Sabino Canyon when we think ‘birdwatching’, but this high desert grassland and marsh area is home for more than 330 species of birds.

Another Arivaca resident, Mary Scott, has been taking photographs of this preserve for many years and has kindly shared many of her pictures with me … some of which I now share with you.

In addition to a plethora of feathered creatures, Buenos Aires also has an assortment of flight-challenged critters; including

Deer At The Arivaca Cienega

deer, fox, bobcat, javelina, plus local reptiles such as snakes, tortoises, and Gila monsters.

Getting there is easy. From Tucson, take I-19 about a half hour south to the Arivaca Road exit, then head west for about 22 miles. This is a pleasant back road over rolling hills … great for bicyclists and motorcyclists. Just before you get to Arivaca is the Gadsden Coffee Co. where you can get breakfast and chose from several varieties of fresh-roasted coffee.

The BANWR makes for a delightful hike through what little remains of wilderness today. Highly recommended!

Oh, and when you’re ready for a really good meal, do visit Sweet Peas Cafe’ just east of the Village of Arivaca. Say ‘Hi’ to Jenni, the proprietor for me. You’ll like Sweet Peas. I personally recommend the quiche.

Traffic On The Road To Arivaca & Buenos Aires National Wildlife Refuge

 

 

One more item. Sweet Peas does not yet serve liquor. For beer, wine, and cocktails do visit La Gitana Cantina in the Village. La Gitana (the Gypsy) is the oldest bar in the oldest Arizona townsite plus, according to Esquire Magazine, one of the top 100 bars in America.

Maggie is the proprietor here and she also publishes the local newspaper, Connection, and the best Wildflower book of the area you will ever see.

The Battle of Picacho Peak – 1862. Then A Picnic Among The Wildflowers!

Tuesday, March 13th, 2012

Confederate Cannons Fire At The Oncoming Union Cavalry

Four of us trekked all the way from Tucson to Picacho Peak State Park last Sunday to watch the re-enactment of the 1862 battle that took place there.

Union Cavalry take formation against the Rebels.

The Battle of Picacho Peak was fought between a Union cavalry patrol from California and a party of Confederate pickets from Tucson. It was the westernmost battle of the American Civil War.

Mexican Poppies Aplenty at Picacho Peak State Park

Once the battle was decided, we adjourned to enjoy our picnic among the wildflowers. Life is good.

 

A Trip To The Ghost Town Of Ruby, AZ!

Tuesday, March 6th, 2012

As I mentioned yesterday, Ruby is about 12 miles from Arivaca. About half way there, the road goes from pavement to dirt. But it’s well-maintained and a standard sedan can easily travel on it (unless of course the area gets a hard rain). Again, do not rely on your GPS.

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Looking through a doorway of a ruins at Ruby, AZ

Looking through a doorway of one of the many buildings at Ruby that still stand.

Ruby was a mining town in the early years of the last century. The mine produced gold, silver, zinc, and copper and was, for a time, highly profitable.

In the 1930′s, Ruby’s population was about 1,200, with 150 students attending the school. The Post Office was established in 1912, and general store owner, Julius Andrews, named the town after his wife.

In the early 1920′s, there were two double murders here. The mine closed in 1940 and, by the next year, the town was mostly abandoned.

When Ms. Karen & I first moved to Tucson, we enjoyed a lovely day trip to Ruby with friends, Dan & Wanda. Since then, Ruby has often been closed to the public. I, my film crew and entourage, went to Ruby last Saturday to do an on-camera interview with one of the partners who own this historical gem, Howard Frederick.

Howard is exceedingly knowledgeable about Ruby and the interview went very well. I should have it edited and posted in a week or two.

Michael is the caretaker at Ruby. If you go, be sure to check in with him. He will give you a site map and happily answer

Ruby School Slide

The slide behind the Ruby schoolhouse.

your questions.

Ruby is open to the public from Thursday-Sunday during daylight hours. Probably not by coincidence, the only good restaurant in the area, Sweet Peas Cafe’ in Arivaca, is open Thursday – Monday. Alternatively, take a picnic lunch and enjoy the picnic area on the sandy beach on the far side of the lake.

Historical information and maps are provided for self-guided tours and entrance fees are $12 per person over 12 years of age. The fees go to the non-profit foundation: Ruby Mines Restoration Project.

The Project is not trying to restore Ruby to its former “grandeur”. Simply raising money to help keep the building from deteriorating further.

Fishing in the pond is permitted, with no license required, for $18. The caretakers can be reached at 744-4471.

Pima Community College also conducts tours of Ruby. Details at (520)206-6579.

Also, you can order the book: Ruby, Arizona – Mining, Mayhem, and Murder, by Bob Ring. It’s authoritative and and a good read.

Ruby owner Howard Frederick

Interviewing Howard Frederick, one of the partners who own Ruby.

When you leave Ruby, you can return to I-19 by going back through Arivaca, or continuing south on Forest Service Road-39. It’s a pretty drive (unpaved for about 13 miles) with a couple of small lakes soon after you reach pavement. Watch out for hunters.

If you appreciate Arizona history in general, and ghost towns in particular, do visit Ruby. Highly recommended!

To The Village of Arivaca & The Ghost Town Of Ruby, AZ !

Monday, March 5th, 2012
Ruby is a well-preserved ghost town in Sothern Arizona

My film crew and entourage. (left to right) Stella Zhang, the vixen of Ruby; 10-year-old Daniel, ghost town explorer; Dr. Clare Zhang, Ph.D. in Oriental Medicine; Mr. Zhang (aka Parker Antin, UA professor of heart medicine); Bill, my father, born in Tucson on Christmas Day, 1919; Ms. Karen, the love of my life and web designer; Pam, psychologist and snowbird from MN; Ms. Sue, Tucson businesswoman, friend, and fellow feminist.

Last Saturday was First Saturday in Arivaca, a small village 25 miles west of I-19 at Amado. I was invited by local resident Paula Perino to check out their First Saturday festivities for my Southern Arizona Guide. Paula arranged for me to conduct several on-camera interviews with the local VIP’s and enjoy lunch at Arivaca’s new restaurant, Sweet Peas Cafe, before we headed on down the road to the ghost town of Ruby. There we were scheduled to do an on-camera interview with Howard Frederick, one of the partners who own Ruby.

The road from Amado to Arivaca winds through rolling, mesquite-covered hills. It’s obviously very popular with cyclists, motor and otherwise.

Just before we arrived in town, we came to the Buenos Aires National Wildlife Refuge where, by appointment, we met and interviewed Richard Conway, a local geologist and Mary Scott, a seasoned birdwatcher and wildlife photographer. Given the quantity and diversity of wildlife here, the BANWR is a worthy destination. Walking the trails in the Cienega and Refuge is a walk back in time before the Spanish, then Mexicans, then Anglos settled here.

Next, it was a less than a mile to town where lots of people were walking all over the place from one booth and activity to

Arivaca First Saturday Festival - Tie Dye Booth

Arivaca First Saturday Festival - March 3, 2012. Arivaca is an eclectic collection of ranchers and farmers, mixed with old and young hippies.

another. We visited the Artist Co-Op, the Farmers’ Market, and La Gitana Cantina, according to Esquire Magazine, one of the 100 best bars in America.

Here we met Maggie Milinovitch, one of the Cantina’s owners. She also publishes (1) the local newspaper Connection; (2) a visitors guide to Arivaca and vicinity; and (3) a popular book on local wildflowers entitled Wildflowers: A Field Guide to Flowering Plants of Arivaca & Southern Arizona. This attractive book is a fountain of information with over 400 great color photos of 204 plant species.

Then it was back up the hill a short ways to check out the Gadsden Coffee Company and interview roastmaster, Bradley Knaub. The place was packed inside and out. Obviously, it’s an important stop-over for the many cyclists who were out enjoying a Chamber of Commerce winter day. The delightful aroma from the various coffee blends permeated the air.

Sweet Peas Cafe' Arivaca, Arizona

Lunch at Sweet Peas Cafe - Arivaca, AZ. Very Good!!!

By now, it was noon, time to feed my hungry film crew and entourage. Sweet Peas Cafe is not in the village, but off the main road a short distance just east of town. Driving west from Amado on Arivaca Road, Sweet Peas has a sign before you enter the village with an arrow pointing left. As a restaurant critic, I wasn’t expecting much. I figured Sweet Peas was going to be just another ‘Mom’s Diner’ in the country.

Right off  we met owner Jenni Kelly Stern (aka Olive Oil), a friendly, hardworking gal. She showed me her plans for outdoor dining behind the restaurant and told me that she expected to have her beer and wine license soon. She’s also had a catering business in this area for many years, and her loyal catering customers have followed her to the restaurant. All that was interesting, but what about the food?

My father, Bill, had a very substantial turkey sandwich and declared it excellent. Ms. Karen and Parker each had a bowl of chili chowder – also excellent – although I did notice Ms. Karen adding a little salt. But then she adds salt to most dishes. Her blood pressure is so low that the habit is not a threat to her health.

Dr. Clare devoured a hamburger almost half her size, while her son, 10-year-old Daniel, managed to spread ketchup on everything he ate. He rated the ketchup “Very Good” until we explained that Federal food guidelines allow ketchup to contain up to 10% bugs. At that point, Daniel seemed to have some concerns.

Feed Store In Arivaca

Ever-aware that I am on a very strict diet to lose weight, I ordered a Quiche Lorraine with veggies freshly picked from their garden and hoped for the best. Calories aside, I was not disappointed. It was, in fact, the best quiche I have ever had. Not sure I will ever have quiche at Mimi’s again.

Sweet Peas is not fancy. But it’s a pleasant place with friendly, efficient service. And the food is very good, indeed!

Following lunch, it was off to find a ghost town. Ruby is about 13 miles further on past Arivaca, about half on pavement and the final half on a well-maintained dirt road denoted FSR-39. Take a paper map. Do not rely on Google Maps or GPS. My GPS told us, “You have arrived at your destination.” at least 5 miles before we arrived at our destination.

Tomorrow, I’ll tell you about our amazing discoveries at Ruby. Stay tuned. jg

 

 

 

 

 

Hiking Through A Carpet of Wildflowers To The Desert Museum

Thursday, February 23rd, 2012

Every since we moved to Tucson, Ms. Karen has wanted to hike to the top of Mt. Wasson from the trailhead at the end of Camino del Cerro on the east slope of the Tucson Mountains. The trail would take her over the ridge and down the west slope of the Tucson Mountains to the Desert Museum. She finally got the opportunity when family from Colorado came to visit last weekend (February 20, President’s Day 2012).

Sweetwater Trail at the head of Camino del CerroThe hikers included Ms. Karen, who is  both my bride and web designer, her cousins, Kathy & Judy, and Judy’s husband, Ray. All physically fit and experienced hikers. Their plan is to hike over the mountain to the Desert Museum where they will have a late lunch.

My assignment was to pick them up at the Desert Museum and haul them back to where they left their car in the parking lot at the Sweetwater Trailhead at the very end of Camino del Cerro. Once back to our home in the foothills of the Tucson Mountains, we will all relax, enjoy Peanut Time on the main patio, watch the sun set over Mt. Wasson from the viewing deck, then BBQ a pork loin for dinner.

Mt. Wasson is the highest peak in the Tucson Mountains at 4687 feet elevation, about half the elevation of Mt. Lemmon in the Catalina Mountains. Horses are allowed on these trails, but not Fido. Go figure.

The Sweetwater Trail, to the ridge where you can see both Tucson below in the east and the Avra Valley to the west is 3.4 miles, plus another 1.2 miles to the top of Mt. Wasson. Taking the King Canyon Trail from the ridge to its trailhead across from the Desert Museum is 2.3 miles.

Here’s Ms. Karen’s report.

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The head of the Sweetwater Trail is about a tenth of a mile up hill from the parking lot. Even this early in the season, we came across wildflowers. Lupine, poppies, desert chicory, to mention a few. From the registration sign and fence that marks public land, the Thunderbird trail heads north past some long-abandoned mines to Picture Rocks Road. This is an easy 4.5 mile hike.

Our trail, the Sweetwater, heads south from this “T” in the road. Ray read somewhere that at one time the original trail was south of the existing trail, but residents would not grant permission for hikers to pass through their property. So a parking lot was created at the end of Camino del Cerro.

Once underway, we could make out old mining roads and some other signs of our pioneers’ handiwork. The trail is rocky but well worn. It took us a couple hours to hike uphill the 3.4 miles to reach the ridge where we could look down both sides of the mountain. Metropolitan Tucson is laid out below us to the east and the Catalina and Rincon Mountains serve as a majestic backgrounds.

The Sweetwater Trail is what true hikers might call moderate. It starts out easy, undulating past giant saguaros, including a rare crested one. Be sure to take plenty of water and go early if the day will be warm. This was mid-February. It seemed the wildflowers were appearing early due to the rains we had last fall. It was too early in the year to see Gila Monsters or Rattlesnakes along the way.

At the top of the ridge, Kathy and Ray stopped to take pictures of the Avra Valley far below as it fans out to the west. As the day heated up to a little less than 70 degrees,  the Mexican Gold Poppies began to open and display their awesome yellow-orange carpet. Here we stopped for our picnic lunch.

I, counting on lunch at the desert museum, brought a granola bar and  2 Honey Crisp apples, which I consider the best, their sweet juiciness, a delight after a thirsty hike. I had brought 2 pints of water, and for a time thought it might not be enough. I made it down with a pint to spare. Judy brought a picnic lunch. So, our plans changed slightly.  Just dessert when we reach the Desert Museum.

None of us were too excited to take on the summit, even though it was only another 1.3 miles. Although we all joked that if  my Uncle Jim, Kathy and Judy’s father, a retired geologist, were here, he would goad us on to the top.

We headed down the west side of the mountain where the sign said nothing about King Canyon, but did indicate the Ma-ma gah picnic area, named after a Tohono Indian Chief. From the ridge, looking down, there never was a sign indicating King Canyon Trail until we reached the point were it ends across the highway from the Desert Museum.

Wildflowers at the top of the saddleWildflowers carpeted the trail and hawks flew in the breeze, a welcome relief as there was no shade anywhere.

At the Mam-A Gah picnic area, which was a hundred yards above our trail, we found a stone house, formerly restrooms, it would appear. Looks like a perfect hideout for snakes and other critters. Their are no restroom facilities along any of these trails or the picnic area. It’s a ‘He / She Bush’ or nothing.

Petroglyphs at Mam-a-Gah Picnic groundsBelow the picnic area, in the wash down about 50 yards or so, is a natural dam and many petroglyphs. We were excited. It felt as though we were the first to discover them. This was not at all like the short hike to the Signal Hill petroglyphs that most local hikers know about and have seen. These appeared to be just waiting to be discovered.

While poking around these rocks, we came upon an old timer who said he had spent the last 16 winters here. He told us of some grinding holes up the way a bit that the Indians used to grind maze into flour. I heard ‘matata’, like in the Lion King. ‘Metate’ is the word. I imagine that the wash was probably 10-20 feet lower 800 years ago due to silting. If so, these metate would have been above any water flowing downstream.

We headed back up to the trail perhaps 50 yards and down .9 miles to the parking lot across from the Desert Museum. If we had just taken the wash, we would have ended up in the same place.

Watch for cars as you cross the highway to the Desert Museum parking lot. President’s Day, a beautiful sunny winter day, was the most crowded that I have ever seen the museum. But by 1:30 the line was fairly short. I renewed my DM membership. The price has gone up since we first visited 10 years ago. It’s now $65 with only 3 guest passes. Luckily, I only had three guests.

We stopped for a respite at the museum snack shop before heading off to the Harris’ Hawk show at 2:00pm. The Raptor Free Flight Show had spread out since the last time I had been, taking up the three tiers to Cat Canyon. A handler stood atop one of the tiers and invited a hawk to perch.

Then off we went to the hummingbird aviary where the little critters were nesting their babies. No less than 6 nests did I see. Mamas all sitting on eggs or feeding babies. If you go, go early or during the week. Seeing those little critters is a treat.

Afterwards, we headed out, it being happy hour and dog-feeding time. WE called hubby, your fearless blogger, to come fetch us from the other side of the hill. We waited in the warmth of the sun of the Avra Valley. Good hike. Good weather. Good company. Life is good.  kr